clutch and brake pedal assemblies for two vehicles rebuilt as well as hand brake levers
IMG_4142.jpg
Cheers Paul
Cleaning the gunk out of the reservoir, I'd probably use a brake cleaner Paul.
clutch and brake pedal assemblies for two vehicles rebuilt as well as hand brake levers
IMG_4142.jpg
Cheers Paul
When I first read this Rod I thought you were referring to the main shafts which are different but the same length and interchangeable
Had bits on my bench yesterday to start rebuilding boxes and columns and noticed that I have one longer outer tube with s/box mounting flange riveted on and two shorter tubes with bolt on mounting flanges
The longer tube corresponds to the tube in Jade my 88
In my backyard wrecking yard I have two 2a's and one series 3 so I'm assuming one of the 2a's has had a series 3 column fitted at some time
will hunt for some 1 3/8" ID tube to sleeve and extend one of the shorter tubes
Cheers Paul
Paul if that blue motor is a 3.3 they are a very good donk, plenty of torque a they have a 6kg heavier bottom
end than the red 202, plus a 12 port head. Check out your conversions and see which one has the heaviest
flywheel and hopefully takes a Land Rover 9.5 clutch and use it when you put it all back together.
As standard a blue 3.3 runs a 2kg lighter flywheel than a red motor. The heaviest is best for your application.
Cheers, Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
Creating a series 2a column from a series 3........and no its not in the manual
IMG_4147.jpgseries 3 column tube shorter than 2a
IMG_4149.jpg cut and sleeve
IMG_4150.jpg IMG_4151.jpg welded
IMG_4152.jpg IMG_4153.jpg while I was at it blanked all series3 slots and holes
IMG_4154.jpg IMG_4157.jpg same length and painted for assembly
IMG_4161.jpg sleeve will be hidden away between pedal boxes
Also found time to take the missus for a look at wild flowers in Jade along Pearl Point Road.....our local version of the Oodnadatta Track
IMG_4163.jpg IMG_4165.jpg IMG_4166.jpg
Cheers Paul
UXPH3760.jpg rebuilt steering column/boxes a little over ball bearings for a while
another point of difference early 2a's have two through holes to mount box smaller diameter these are larger hole boxes
Cheers Paul
Did some front axle examinations on my series 3 donor today and found
IMG_4168.jpg IMG_4169.jpg I'm assuming I'm up for a new drive shaft or is this OK
IMG_4170.jpg whatever happened in the past damaged inside of swivel ball as well.....I did notice spring clip thingo on the inside of the hub wasn't seated when I disassembled this side (drivers) perhaps the axle slid out of the diff a bit because of this and uni flogged against inside of swivel ball
IMG_4172.jpg are these unis OK there is no sideways movement I assume centrifugal force keeps the rollers in correct position
IMG_4174.jpg I wanted to use this axle assembly in my blue Holden rebuild as its got more splines and beefier shafts
IMG_4177.jpg damage to diff bolt or stud surprisingly on the top of the diff
IMG_4179.jpg swivel balls in good nick but no steering stops either side
Cheers Paul
The notches on the universal yoke are of no concern provided the cup is held properly. There is not much clearance, and it has probably been run with flogged out U-joint, or possibly had a foreign object in there at some time.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Universal joints usual have cork seals in the caps & they would keep the rollers in place.
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