Thread: Bella's new start

Originally Posted by debruiser

I've noticed that my steering arms rub on what I think is full articulation... but as far as I know I'm fully stock on springs etc. Is this correct? should I be worried?

Two things that would help are:
1. Have the springs hot-reset, which would lift the chassis, probably enough for the steering rod to clear the spring.

2. Do what I did and cut the spring clamp off level with the top of the springs. This may cause more rebound of the spring on that side but the benefit is that the axle can articulate more on the downward drop, which is good for off-roading.

Some people advocate removing the bolt in your setup and bending the clamp ends over the spring. This will work as well, but it makes pulling the spring pack apart, a pain.

If your steering rod is jamming on the clamp, then you really should get it sorted out, as steering is a safety item,

Cheers Charlie

Originally Posted by chazza

2. Do what I did and cut the spring clamp off level with the top of the springs. This may cause more rebound of the spring on that side but the benefit is that the axle can articulate more on the downward drop, which is good for off-roading.



Cheers Charlie

So Charlie, are you saying that you have nothing across the tops of the spring pack and only horizontal control of the leaves?

Originally Posted by '76swb

So Charlie, are you saying that you have nothing across the tops of the spring pack and only horizontal control of the leaves?

Only on the front left corner, where the steering rod fouls-the-footpath.

Isuzurover has removed most of his I think, to get some seriously good articulation off-road. I will take the bolts out of mine once it is licenced

Cheers Charlie

Yaaay, look what arrived from Autosparks today!

How many hours of hell errr..... fun have I got ahead of me?



They look so sweet and innocent, neatly curled up and free of 37 years of living in a Land Rover, compared to the shambles in the shed.

For anyone who wants/needs to know, I ordered the harnesses 23-04-13 and they arrived 27-05 13 (in case you didn't know). I went with what they call the main harness, the engine harness and the chassis harness. It ended up being about $440 delivered.

Regards,

Marty.

You wont regret that purchase. I bought the same for my S2a when i rebuilt that...was so easy plugging it all together with all new light assembles etc.
Going save a lot of time than chasing wiring gremlins in 37 year old wiring

Originally Posted by '76swb

Yaaay, look what arrived from Autosparks today!

How many hours of hell errr..... fun have I got ahead of me?

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They look so sweet and innocent, neatly curled up and free of 37 years of living in a Land Rover, compared to the shambles in the shed.

For anyone who wants/needs to know, I ordered the harnesses 23-04-13 and they arrived 27-05 13 (in case you didn't know). I went with what they call the main harness, the engine harness and the chassis harness. It ended up being about $440 delivered.

Regards,

Marty.

Originally Posted by Lostkiwi

You wont regret that purchase. I bought the same for my S2a when i rebuilt that...was so easy plugging it all together with all new light assembles etc.
Going save a lot of time than chasing wiring gremlins in 37 year old wiring

You bettcha! I made the decision pretty early on during the dismantling process. The wiring near the headlights looked like they'd had ten different driving light hook ups! The wiring through the chassis to the tail lights etc was actually burnt out.

About the only thing I'd like to do that's not totally original would be to use a fuse box that holds those modern fuses (you know, the pretty coloured ones). I'm pretty sure it shouldn't be too hard to set up.

Cheers for now,

Marty.

G'day All,

I've been making a little bit of progress although very slowly it seems.

My lower facia panel was quite sad at both ends so I decided to try fibreglass as a fix.



First I cut/ground/wire brushed as much of the dead metal out. Measure out the pieces to go in.



Then paint a bit of resin on first to aid sticking, lay the mat down and paint the resin till it all looks wet. The brush I used was quite stiff which aided in getting resin into tighter spots.



The highlighted area where there was no metal left, also copped a good "glassing" on the inside of the air box as well.

The wiper motor end received the same treatment.



The circled bit I had to build up a bit more as there was nothing left after the rust came away and it's right where one of the fixing screws go.

The matting I used was 450g/m but it was possible to split it and lay it down twice, which made it a lot easier to shape.

I also dug the rear tub out of the back shed and started to do a bit of work to it.




I found a deep (the picture isn't as clear as I'd hoped but that is a green wall plug!) patch of bog I hadn't noticed under the dirt, so I'll see if I can beat the panel out a bit more than it has been.

Cheers for now,

Marty.

Looking good just been through a lot of the same process myself. Engine to go in soon. Certainly a good feeling when it's going back together.