Thread: Bunyip rebuild

Still to nice in front of the fire the last few weekends anyway so not much happening but I have not got the LH guard finished yet and need to fit the door locks and pins now. I had visions of a set of extractors but I cannot see how the available ones would clear the PTO shaft. If the weekend is nice I will bleed the clutch and hot wire it just to hear it run again

Well after several months of inactivity I spent the afternoon playing with the Bunyip and after a bit of an issue with a bad earth strap I tipped some fuel in the tank and hit the key. The little workhorse started right up and idled sweet as a kitten. Still a long way to go but it was great to have it running again even if it was just to bring it up to temperature and check for leaks.


I have started reinstalling the dash and all the wiring but with so much of it replaced after finding the melted wire in the guts of the main loom it has been a slow day working out what connects to what and starting to bind it all up with insulation tape again.
I installed the heater fan and wipers and both are working fine but both the heater boxes I have here are completely rusted away in the lower half so it looks like I will have to build one before I can go much further with the dash.


I started looking at bolting the sides and roof back on and discovered I do not have the rubber seals for the side panels to tub joins. looks like I have new ones for the side panels to roof and roof to windscreen but somehow have missed out on the middle ones. I am sure I ordered them with some other stuff from paddocks but they must not have had them in stock, Bugger,
Who sells these seal in Australia.

Well I have managed to find a reasonable heater box with only a few small rust holes in it so I will send it off to get galvanised.



It is different to the one that was on the car and so is the fan unit
. The previous one had a resistor in the heater box but I do not know if this is necessary.
the other difference is my heater core was 1/2 but this one is 5/8 and has a finer tube and fin radiator core.
The shiny bit is where I have ground off the rusted nuts

The resistor gives you two fan speeds. The low speed is supplied through the resistor, which reduces the voltage across the motor.

Thanks COOP that explains it a little better.


So I have been toying with the idea of replacing the distributor with an electronic ignition type instead of the old points unit. My distributor is worn and there is quite a bit of play in the shaft and the vacuum advance seems sloppy.


Is this a good idea and what unit is best?


My Zenith carby is worn out too. Again I am thinking of buying one of the copies that are available as a replacement.
My wife came up with the idea to hunt around for someone who can rebuild the Zenith and just use the knock off until I can find someone to do the job. The throttle shaft is worn so bad it can be heard sucking air over the exhaust noise.
Is there anyone around Victoria that will do a reasonable job at a reasonable price?

I got a quote for, I think it was about $600 to rebuild the Zenith from a lcal carburettor specialist. I decided I couldn't afford that, and some time later got a new copy for $150. Once I managed to gt the O-ring to seal, and replaced the leaky float, the 2a drove better than it has since I got it 24 years ago!

The only ongoing issue with it is the idling speed keeps dropping, either because the adjusting screw is not staying put or the stop it goes against is wearing, I suspect the latter.


John

WOW 600 is a lot for a rebuild just to keep an original carb and it sounds like your happy with the repo John.
The go for around 200 now I think.

Originally Posted by Peter O

WOW 600 is a lot for a rebuild just to keep an original carb and it sounds like your happy with the repo John.
The go for around 200 now I think.

I got mine as an Expo special from All four x 4, either 2015 or perhaps even 2014.

The major problem with yours is, as you apparently realise, the worn throttle spindle and its bushes (actually it turns in the body). Apart from this the other usual issue with these is the top cover can warp and there is often a simple problem of the O-ring not sealing, either because of damage or because of dirt on the seat, or because it has hardened with age and is not in exactly the same place as it was originally.

John