Thanks Gav and Mick.
The cross member has rot in it and need changing, hence making a removable one.
With hoist available under 2 grand, I would maybe get one in the future, so gearbox would be better out the bottom, or top.
I either weld replacement one in, or removable bracket.
Still looking and thinking.
And yes, my brain hurts.
Thanks again.
Lots of rot in the lower, middle crossmember.
Cut out and found lots of crud, and rust.
Thinking of removing the hole along with the bad rust and welding 250x250 2.5mm plate either side.
Will never use it, or could I ????
would you? repair or remove and plate over ????
Thanks for your comments.
Tail shaft don't go through the Hole, Rod.
Its for a rear PTO drive shaft, Hard to find, don't think I would use one, if I ever found one.
Had a good afternoon.
Able to inset the patches now.
Welding getting much quicker and better.
This chassis is looking like my 80" was 20 years ago when i first bought it . Had to make all the out riggers , booth gearbox mounts , 1/2 m of bottom half of booth main chassis rails , the bottom half of the front X member including making new tube for the steering relay & the rear X member. At least it made it easier to clean all the grass out the mice had taken in for nesting.
Your doing a good job , looking good
Thanks.
Got the hang of my little stick welder.
I was moving to SLOW.
Now happy to just cut out to good steel, and weld in patch.
Now nice beads, still cleaning up with grinder.
Mate who runs/owns McCloud Engineering, lives 5mins away. Just tell him the steel size and he cuts it for me. Last lengths cost me $10
How many of us weld, tidy and look proud, then look at the Landy experts welding.
Best bits done are mine.
Can see the drain holes being a 'mouse entry point'
Going to see if I can get 1 1/4 inch rubber plug to put in.
Can get 1 1/8 plug from Auto one, yet to check Repco/AutoBarn/Super Cheap.
I am going to add a few more 1 1/8 drain holes.
More pics to follow.
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