Thread: Spark Plug Cables

Sounds like the problem lays with the high tension lead not connecting properly (or buggered). If it was the individual plug leads, that would cause misfire, not a complete shut down.

As Gerokent says, the spark plug leads cannot cause a total electrical failure as you describe. I think you clearly have a bad connection, probably in the low tension side of the ignition, that is intermittent, and something in what you did disturbed it and made it work again.

The no lights suggests that it in the ignition switch itself or its connections - but can you clarify; you put the lights on and the ignition failed? In this case, the problem will be in the wire that feeds to "everything" except the starter, and goes from the starter solenoid to the instrument panel from memory, and the extra load of the lights has meant a big drop in voltage. That the jerk from putting it in gear fixed it, suggests that it is a loose connection, which may just need tightening.

I think you need an auto electrician or at least someone who is a bit more knowledgeable about auto electrics.

John

Take off your battery terminals, clean them with one of those terminal cleaner tools, wash away any white gunk with hot water with Bicarb soda in it.

What you have described is most likely to be that.
Regards Philip A

X2 PhilipA.
Sounds like a dodgy battery connection or possibly the main earth connection onto the chassis.
Take them all apart, clean them and bolt them up again.
Phil B

Just an update on the situation.

After taking note of all your suggestions I started looking for new battery cables (the one to the engine block) but I think was too late...

On Saturday while going to a bbq and driving through Old South HEad Road in Bondi the car stalled and died... No one got upset with me (as you can imagine no one gets upset at a Landie) and the long queue behind me was patient enough to let me reverse on the kerb so the traffic was free to flow.
(got to sat had plenty of attention and smiles from lot of ladies...! maybe was my dog at the back!).
Anyway. the car suddenly died, coughed a bit and then stopped. I thought it was the same cable problems so I open the bonnet, fiddled with the cables and tried to restart. The starter was running but was like there was no spark happening.
I also thought I was without petrol so I got hold of 5L of petrol, disconnected the line on to the Zenith carb but only to notice petrol was not the issue.

Had to call NRMA. Great guy, experienced.
Tested the coil was working and electricity was running through, OK
Tested the Spark Plugs, OK
Opened the distributor and found it very dirty, cleaned it a bit and magic happened, it started again!
Tried to move the car forward in first gear but as soon I was releasing the clutch the engine was dying. Open the distributor again, cleaned the points and not the car runs much much better than before.
He told me I should change the points, the condenser, put fresh leads in and change the distributor cover. I bought all the parts on RoverParts yesterday and I should have them on by the end of the week.

Amazing how such a little clean can have an engine running so much smoother and better than before. is it normal?


Problems didn't end here... I was able to make it to the bbq at the end but when leaving and turning the lights on the car died again. Like all the electricity was drowned from the system.
Lucky I was not alone so I asked one of my friends to look at the dashboard while I was fiddling with the cables and let me know when the lights were coming back on.

Touching the battery cables the lights on the dash went back on. I did change the negative going to the block (as I thought it was the one) and I cleaned the block before but I think I should have changed the positive one too as last night it happened again.

Has any of you have knowledge of where I can find the positive cable replacement? I didn't look into it as much yet but it appears is not as simple as the negative one where you can just bolt it on.

Does any know if I can install a Lucas Sport 12v coil? Will it work? I guess better electricity going through means a better running engine for the past week experiences...

Thanks for all your help guys, much much appreciated!

Andrea

Burnt or dirty points or dirty cap will cause bad or no running - replace them. Burnt points are likely to be caused by a faulty capacitor/condenser (same thing, two names), but also by wrong coil.

There are two types of 12v coil; ones simply called 12v, and ones designed for use with a resistor, called either 12v(resistor) or 8v. You need the first type, if you have the other type it will draw too much current and will not only cause the points to have a short life, but the coil will overheat and eventually fail as well. But before this the engine will run well!

The sport coil will draw more current than the normal one, but not as much as an 8v coil, so will have little effect on the points, and being designed for the higher current should last as well. But if your current coil is in good shape, you won't be able to tell the difference.

If there is any doubt about the high tension leads - replace them. When fitting points, or adjusting them, make sure they do not get oil on them, for example from oily tools, as this will shorten their life, and possibly that of the distributor cap and rotor button.

You obviously need to replace some of your battery leads. These are available in a variety of lengths from any of the places such as Supercheap, Repco etc. All you need is to check what fittings are on each end and measure the length you need.

John

Hi John,

Looking for a positive battery cable but very hard to find brand new. Not even RoverParts has them..
For the moment I am going with the below and hopefully we are going to clear a little bit the situation.
Today when I get home I'll get my hands dirty and look what fitting the positive cable has on...finger crossed I can outsource the cable!

Thanks for your suggestions John!

Qty. Name Product ID Price Total 1CONDENSER 1954-76 4+6 CYLINDER & 101 V8 24 VOLT 90/110 V8 ENGINE 14G.15G.17G.
337104.00$ 4.00 1DISTRIBUTOR POINTS - L/ROVER 4cyl (1956 to '76) + 6cyl (41227+41498)
225608.00$ 8.00 1DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR - L/ROVER (upto & including engine suffix 'C')
475105.00$ 5.00 1IGNITION LEAD SET - L/ROVER S3 (4 CYL) (select Genuine or Aftermarket)
BRAND:GENUINE (UNIPART) (add $33)
ERC3256 50.00$ 50.00 1DISTRIBUTOR CAP - L/ROVER S3 2.25 PETROL (PUSH IN CONNECTORS) 1968 to 1975
R566859 16.00$ 16.00

Originally Posted by Andrea II 88

Hi John,

Looking for a positive battery cable but very hard to find brand new. Not even RoverParts has them..
.....

Probably because you can get them from the local auto parts place! These probably also have suitable high tension leads, but again, you need to measure lengths and check fittings, although if you have the push in connectors on the distributor cap, this should not be an issue. The points you may get locally as well, but condenser and cap less likely - but you could be lucky. Preferably for all these, if you are not dependent on the vehicle, take your existing parts with you to make sure you are getting the right ones.

John