Thread: SERIES 3 POWER STEERING CONVERSION

Originally Posted by Jimmy

How can you put power steering into a series 3? Currently running a holden 6 but hope to put a 200TDi in it.

cheers
jim

I've done it using a Heystee kit. See www.greenacre.biz for details.

Peter

Sorry bout the thread drift, but very nice work there peterg1001. I'll have to save that link and watch the build up on the next one.
Love the temporary dash for the engine fire up.

G'day Jim,
I too plan to put a 200tdi in mine and I was super-keen to do what Banjo had done; however; several possible problems/expenses reared up when I did some research.

1. Ring the WA Transport people and ask to speak to the Engineering Dept because the first potential stumbling block is whether or not, they allow steering modifications. If they say no, the idea ends there!
2. Download the pdf from the National licencing and vehicle standards people which tells you what requirements have to be met. From memory: detailed technical drawings of the proposed modification; approval by an engineer with a proven track-record in vehicle modification; inspection by said engineer of your modification at various stages to inspect the welding, structural integrity, assembly, etc.
3. Find a suitable donor car, or parts and part with the money.
4.For myself living in a small country town without an engineer, I could foresee long, frequent and expensive trips to Perth to have each stage inspected even if it did get approved. Not forgetting that the modified linkages - even if they are allowed to be welded in WA - would need X-raying etc. and more money parted with.

In the end I decided not to enquire at step 1. and put it in the too expensive basket. However; if you live in Perth and licencing says yes, I imagine it would not be too difficult to accomplish Having the ability to weld and draw would be decided advantage.

Let us all know how you get on,

Cheers Charlie

Originally Posted by chazza

G'day Jim,
I too plan to put a 200tdi in mine and I was super-keen to do what Banjo had done; however; several possible problems/expenses reared up when I did some research.

1. Ring the WA Transport people and ask to speak to the Engineering Dept because the first potential stumbling block is whether or not, they allow steering modifications. If they say no, the idea ends there!
2. Download the pdf from the National licencing and vehicle standards people which tells you what requirements have to be met. From memory: detailed technical drawings of the proposed modification; approval by an engineer with a proven track-record in vehicle modification; inspection by said engineer of your modification at various stages to inspect the welding, structural integrity, assembly, etc.
3. Find a suitable donor car, or parts and part with the money.
4.For myself living in a small country town without an engineer, I could foresee long, frequent and expensive trips to Perth to have each stage inspected even if it did get approved. Not forgetting that the modified linkages - even if they are allowed to be welded in WA - would need X-raying etc. and more money parted with.

In the end I decided not to enquire at step 1. and put it in the too expensive basket. However; if you live in Perth and licencing says yes, I imagine it would not be too difficult to accomplish Having the ability to weld and draw would be decided advantage.

Let us all know how you get on,

Cheers Charlie

The Xray cost me $300 that was for the Xray & traverse hardning test & all the paper work to proove it was done..

On the green one i used the power steering box off a 84 60 series from memery but on Harry i used a later model box off the same car a 60 series the only differance is the bolt holes are offset..
My engineers papers & inspections cost $450 BUT i have been using him for some years to inspect & engineer all my cars so it was quiet cheap compared to others i have spoke to..

Oh yeah the first box cost me $250 but the later one cost $150..

You also have to make a drag link, from box to wheel..I used 4140 steal has landrover thread at wheel end & toyota at the box.. I also welded the steering damper bracket off the original drag link to the new one..

Also try to get all the parts first before you start it will make it easier to sort out & your engineer may want to see them all & check them ..Again i was lucky as i have used him for so long he knew what the parts would be like & was able to skip that bit..

When finding an engineer always ask what have they done , how long have they been doing certificates ..You can use ANY engineers in ANY state as long as they are registered with the RTA download the list off there site..Build a relationship with your engineer as you need to see them regularly..Most will come to you but do charge a call out fee..The bloke i use doesnt which was one of the resons i chose him..
But i now have to find a new engineer myself as the one i use has retired or died..

The only differance to doing the conversion on a holden engine or TDI would be the pump & pipes..

Useful post Banjo

it is much as I suspected cost-wise, plus the expense of towing the car to the engineers with a 400km return trip - probably more than once - that killed the idea for me The conversion would have cost about double what the car is worth!

In the meantime I have been pumping iron to get myself in shape

Cheers Charlie

I just happen to have recently removed the power steering system from my S2a ... and I'm in Perth too! Fate or coincidence?
Flick me a PM if you're interested in a chat.
Cheers
John B

It is not necessary to drill holes into or weld a strengthening plate to the chassis rail, with all its engineering hassles when fitting a Toyota steering box. Just cut a half inch thick plate the same profile as the chassis rail, but about 2'' deeper and about 7'' long.
Drill the plate and fit the box with 4 countersunk Unbrako bolts, with nylock nuts facing outwards.The countersunk bolt heads let the plate sit flat agaist the side of the chassis.Then drill 4 more half inch holes in the plate and 2 pieces of 2''x1'' x 5mm steel channel so that it can be clamped to the chassis rail with the bolts and crush tubes above and below the box section. The rear upper and lower bolts go 1'' behind the rear corner of the front crossmember, and the front upper and lower bolts go about 1'' forward of the grille panel mounting bracket.I use Landy 2 1/4 litre cylinder head bolts and 1/2'' UNF lock nuts for this because I had dozens of them.
I have converted 4 LandRovers this way, The engineer loves it and the bolts, box or plate never works loose even after 10 years of hard work.Unfortunately I used to have photos of the complete conversion on LR4x4.com but something went wrong and they vanished into cyberspace.
Wagoo.

Top tip Wagoo!

Thanks for posting. I always find it so interesting when people tell us all, about different ways to tackle a problem,

Cheers Charlie