Thread: 2.25 head failure

I didn't know the 25D came RH or LH.
How do you tell from looking at one ????
Thanks.

Whitehillbilly

Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

I didn't know the 25D came RH or LH.
How do you tell from looking at one ????
Thanks.

Whitehillbilly

Would the points be around the other way, as the dizzy cam usually rotates towards the contact end?
Confusing really!!!



Cheers, Mick.

25D and 45D is the model no. What is the service number ? Most likely a 5 digit number .
.W.

the distributor had a petronix electronic points replacement.


the base plate looks the same as the workshop and on line pictures.


I did a google.found an add for Australian made rebuilt holden 6 cyl lucas distributor. It used the same points as the Leyland E6. I rember buying XU1 points for both bosch and lucas. Im guessing its the same as the MG or performance mini points advertised.


I once used a holden shaft in a Leyland P76 running on LPG. It had the original vacume advance connected to manifold vac. Lpg liked lots of advance at idle and I tightened the slow speed spring inside so it retarded at hyway speeds. It had an forklift impco gas only set up, I bought it from an old guy, lots of KM and was fitted with a big tank before the days of AFL. It was retired in the 90's when I could not get a roadworthy.

NOTE this is fitted with 4:1 diffs and 33 inch wheels. top gear is like over drive.

Had 2 long runs-60 km total] to get the pink slip.
Monday they had been swamped with weekend tow-ins. That allowed me 2 legal runs to be inspected.
Rural road 90 km speed limit [Bucketts Way].

I set the timing to factory at idle. 6 deg. runs ok up to 60Kmh. very smooth idle.
It needs a down hill to get to 90kmh. it will hold 75+ with light throttle. noticeable poor compared to before. water temp between cold and 1/3 and this morning it struggled to demist the windscreen.

On the run home I retarded the timing. pulled on the dist till the idle dropped. havnt put the light on it yet. It then got back some it its health with 100Kmh achieved on some flat ground. water temp needle wandered up to half a few times. Im guessing it has too much advance built in to the aftermarket distributor.
I havnt got the fan cowl fitted Im thinking about fitting a pusher electric fan and new exhauste.
P/S after fixing the non boosted 10 inch brakes enough to get the rear to skid it got an amaizing 47% average decal at 600NM of pedal. another 2% it would have matched a new landruiser.

In good shape and properly adjusted, there is nothing wrong with the brakes unless you overuse them on a long downhill (drums fade a lot worse than discs) or drive through water (reduced friction from the lubricating effect of the water reduces the self servo, resulting in a large increase in pedal pressure).

Light weight of a swb Series is a lot easier to stop than any of the current overweight crop!

John

Ive got it passed for rego and have 110Km on it now.
Most of the issues are sorted. Found a set of very old motorcraft plugs AGR 54 in the store, these are what was used by local RFB vehicles. Had RN14-Y on the box. I can run a lot more ignition advance and they stayed clean. I tried NGK BKR6ES it misfired at high reves, and BP5ES but they fowled.


Currently good for 110Kmh except for a rise more than half a Km long.


Muffler needs to be replaced before I get too involved chasing tuning issues. Runs great under 70Kmh.


Purchased a factory hand throttle to FIX a personal issue with warm up and adjusting the hot idle down., currently when hot the vac advance stays max causing it to hunt.


Cold start is ok but choke automatically releases after after a few seconds. To set the choke for starting you have to push down the throttle, you wind over on the starter It fires first go and does a rough idle, it will stay till the engine revs up about 1500+ when the air flow past the choke pulls the choke open and the cable has no lock. to have a fast idle for warn up [800-1100] ive been holding the choke knob half out, my mates dad always had a peg handy. The up the street drive in the morning it stumbles a bit, but choke has no effect


Ive dug out a 2 speed electric push fan to replace the original 4 blade and cowl. Japanese R31 Skyline GT. Got to make a small bracket so it lines up with original holes in body work.


Got a few fan switches, might buy a new adjustable deal. thinking of setting up a coolant warning light instead of the gauge.
Turns out that if it runs at 82 degree the temp gauge sits on the bottom of the red--some other forums I found that different gauge and voltage reg setting is needed if you want to run the engine above original 74 degree.
Engine is struggling to make enough heat for the heater. I can put my finger in the radiator and watch the thermostat open for a few seconds. after a 30 Km drive the core is cold.

250 Km with 50 liters of fuel.


hand throttle arrived. nutserts in the bulk head already only have to r/r the throttle links.


Bolt fell out of the manifold so I did a retension.


looking to fit an atni backfire valve, I found the PCV hose full of water/oil. I used a Nissan PCV in a falcon hose the original pipe had rusted. I removed the fitting in the carby adaptor and the Nissan pcv screwed into replace it. rerouted the pipe.


I removed the brake booster blank plug and fitted a port from a Nissan manifold a small hose adaptor. it was a plug with a 3mm pipe inserted through it. it extended into the manifold air flow and appears to work like a venturi.. I now have a much better controlled vac advance distributor than using the port vacume.


when doing this I leaned on the air horn and the engine stopped. the 4 screws in the carby was loose. now much better idle. cold start in the morning is hairy, using low range it fault less.