Thread: My 88" Series 3

Well, work and life have really got in the way of me getting near the series 3 lately! (That and running out of funds!) I've manage a bit in between times though...

The gearbox was mostly in good nick inside, however there is a bit of damage to the reverse gear teeth on the layshaft





I think I've found a new genuine replacement, if that doesn't pan out it'll have to go back in, the damage isn't that bad, and all the forward gears are fine.

The fist/second syncro hub is also damaged with two corners broken off.





The bush on the mainshaft had welded itself to the shaft and come very close to failing completely





The locating pin for the bush was shorn off with the remaining part stuck in the main shaft





I was very lucky and managed to drill into it enough, with a 1.5mm drill bit, for it to grab and come out





I put the tub back on the chassis temporarily to get it out of the way, I hope the springs settle a bit!





As mentioned before the old PDWA switch is getting sacraficed so it can live on as a brake bleeding tool, so the head got cut off it! In case anyone wondered what was inside the switch, there is a rusty spring, a rusty plunger, and some rust





Drilled and tapped a M6 thread down the guts of it





And a long bolt, (for no other reason than it was found first), that can be screwed down on to the spindle in the PDWA valve to hold it in place while the brakes are bled





All back together, and with a light coat of clear paint to stop it rusting, (again). As tempting as it is to paint everything black the chassis would start to look a bit depressing without any contrasting colours!





And back in place





The firewall also got stripped of all the bits and pieces so it can get blasted,

Before





and after





The only real rust on the firewall is near the mount for the door strap(?), the mount point has been pushed in a bit and will need to be repaired. I may make up a reinforcing plate so it doesn't happen again, (so long as there is clearance for it).





Apart form that, the engine has been dropped off to the engine machinists, just have to wait to see what they recommend re the piston sizes, and if the crank needs any work.

Cheers,

Good to hear you are still alive.
Been many days between posts.
ENJOY
Andrew

Decided to pull this part to pieces this evening





There is a circular spring clip on the end of the shaft that needs to come off first, unfortunately it is holding a wacking great spring on. So, on with the Mk1 starter motor spring compressor thing





The end plate has a nut gently welded to it to stop the shaft of the rotor assembly from slipping off the plate and launching itself across the workshop





Spring clip thing exposed so it can be removed





The front bearing was well on its way to eating itself, fortunately the shaft is undamaged





And all the bits





Never seen a "flat" commutator before





Gave it a clean with a scotchbrite, its nice an flat with no obvious wear





Now I just need to clean/blast/paint all the other bits and put it back together. Yay.

Cheers,

Oh, and had a call from the engine machinist, need 20 thou oversize pistons, and 10 thou under sized bearings for the crank. Not bad for 42 years!!

Cheers,

Tim I saw a shorty with a dunnydoore V6 conversion on Gumtree(should have bookmarked it)
Look it up,it had a Willwood brake proportioner.Could be an improvement over the original.
Andrew

Thanks Andy, I'll see if I can find it. Also if you look closely there are fitting adaptors on the PDWA valve, these are so I can fit "t joints", with inverted flares, to bypass the PDWA valve. Despite claims on the internets the PDWA valve does not isolate a leaking circuit, it will activate the warning switch, but still allow fluid to pass, so in effect does no more than the level switch in the brake fluid reservoir.

I've decided to leave the car as standard for now, (I mean it has worked up to the point where I pulled it apart ). If it ****es me off too much then I'll do something with it

Cheers

Here you gotTim.
Land Rover series 3 1972 88inch truck cab | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Stirling Area - Innaloo | 1135276852
Andrew

I dunno, my PDWA would isolate flow to the open circuit. That is why it is pain to bleed the brakes, as on the second pump the valve would trigger and I could not get any flow from the bleed nipple at the wheel....

That Wilwood unit is only a brake proportioning valve. It won't deal with a circuit failure? My brakes pull up balanced with no rear wheel lockup.