Thread: UJ's for front driveshafts

What about drilling the caps so oil can get in?

ALL UJ's have the 4 seals to keep the dust out, so make sure you install seals of some description on each arm before you put them back together. If they hav'nt got grease nipples, just grease them thoroughly BEFORE assembly, that'll give you many K's of use.

Originally Posted by dick180641

ALL UJ's have the 4 seals to keep the dust out, so make sure you install seals of some description on each arm before you put them back together. If they hav'nt got grease nipples, just grease them thoroughly BEFORE assembly, that'll give you many K's of use.

I think you missed the fact that these are on an axle shaft that sits in an oil bath. The OE UJs DON'T have seals, as they are designed to be splash lubricated with oil.

Originally Posted by isuzurover

What about drilling the caps so oil can get in?

I did think of that but because they are hardened it would mean purchasing a carbide drill bit.
It's interesting to see the wear inside the caps and the ends of the four arms because alignment seems to be critical (see this thread 217354 bush for front stub axle)


Colin

Originally Posted by gromit

Needle rollers will run OK with minimal lubrication but I thought that maybe the caps should be removed.
I had the chance with one of the driveshafts I'm re-fitting so I managed to remove the plastic cap in situ (I was fitting a new UJ anyway). The problem is that the plastic boot actually holds the needle rollers in place with some UJ designs.

Hi Colin

If the exposed percentage of needle rollers isn't that great, say 20% or less I would still take the sealing rings off and allow the oil to wash the working of the U/J's cups.
Stop! I have noticed a problem the ends of the needle rollers when exposed are sitting on the relief radius on the journal of the yoke and they would break the ends of the needles under load.

Without the plastic cap the needle rollers can move out by about 3-4mm.
I checked a few other UJ's and some have a step so that with the boot removed the needle rollers stay in place.

this modification would still work.
I have seen those U/J's with out seals but instead with steel rings that hold the needle rollers in place, I don't know whether the rings were hardened or not.
.

Arthur,

I was thinking an O-ring would be another solution. There will not be much thrust against it (the needles are only held by a 'plastic' shield anyway).


Colin

Originally Posted by gromit

I did think of that but because they are hardened it would mean purchasing a carbide drill bit.
It's interesting to see the wear inside the caps and the ends of the four arms because alignment seems to be critical (see this thread 217354 bush for front stub axle)


Colin

A masonry bit will do the job. Sharpen it first if you can though (diamond wheel, etc..)

Originally Posted by isuzurover

A masonry bit will do the job. Sharpen it first if you can though (diamond wheel, etc..)

What angles would be best for that type of job?
.