Thread: TD5 not starting after head fix

Keep with the bleeding process, mine took about 20 times to getallthe air out. Also check the earth on the t/case is good as this is th earth for the pump.

Rick.

Only 20 minutes you say!!!
I did it for about 30 minutes.
Switch the car on till the dash lights up, press the accelarator five times and the engine light will start flashing.
The pump will now prime for about two minutes.did this many times.
The engine started with a splutter and cough with plenty of white smoke but still ran.
One more problem.
On the test drive the engine (Warmed up properly) was down ion power with almsot nothing above idling.
Stalled when I pulled into my driveway.
It's a slight incline from standing still (Gate).

somethings very not right......

Double check your timing and pull the 4 glow plugs and do a leakage check on each cylinder.

you might have the valve timing out, valves not seating correctly which is robbing you of compression or injectors not seating which is letting air into the fuel rail.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

somethings very not right......

Double check your timing and pull the 4 glow plugs and do a leakage check on each cylinder.

you might have the valve timing out, valves not seating correctly which is robbing you of compression or injectors not seating which is letting air into the fuel rail.

The cam timing is spot on.
The flywheel slot, cam slot, two coloured links and pulley mark all aligns.
Two things, valves not sealing (recon head) and injectors.
Will have leak test done next week.
It also pumps more smoke than before when giving it a bit of right foot.
Injector washes and o-rings are all new. Even had 300TDI washers in with same results.
The idea of injectors not sealing could be correct.
This morning when I started it after driving to work the engine spluttered a bit and also did not start as easy as before.
The pump also whined as if there was air in the system.

Check that the crank angle sensor on the top of bell housing hasn't been disturbed or is unplugged. This is about the only sensor on a TD5 which stops it from running.

Erich

Phoned around today.
One expert commented that he's seen the steeln dowels being too long.
A little bit but this could cause the head not sealaing properly against the head gasket.
When turning the engine over by hand I cannot hear the typical hissing sound of each cylinder blowing down.
Me thinks, pull the head and redo/check everything.
Even cranking the engine seems faster than before.
One other comment was that the rings gould have gone sticky but the engine has not been standing long. (5 days)

Originally Posted by Bundalene

Check that the crank angle sensor on the top of bell housing hasn't been disturbed or is unplugged. This is about the only sensor on a TD5 which stops it from running.

Erich

It runs but starts vey difficult. Possible low compression due to leak down.

Originally Posted by Rudolf

Phoned around today.
One expert commented that he's seen the steeln dowels being too long.
A little bit but this could cause the head not sealaing properly against the head gasket.
When turning the engine over by hand I cannot hear the typical hissing sound of each cylinder blowing down.
Me thinks, pull the head and redo/check everything.
Even cranking the engine seems faster than before.
One other comment was that the rings gould have gone sticky but the engine has not been standing long. (5 days)

Cobblers. I've measured them side by side before now and not at all. Besides, there is ample room for linear expansion both in the block and the head.

I'd be ensuring the battery is in tip top condition, and that if the head WAS machined, that the valve stem heights and seats were checked for standard measurements. Is there white smoke/ unburnt diesel when you start it eventually? Oops, just read that bit
Does the engine check lamp illuminate while cranking for extended period?...And that bit
I'd be definately trying a new battery, AND it is entirely possible that the valves could be held open slightly if the stem heights are too long. This in effect is the same as tight valve clearances. The hydraulic lash adjusters can't work without a certain amount of initial clearance.

JC