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Thread: V8 Non start after rebuild

  1. #21
    sheerluck Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by RoverP6B View Post
    It is my understanding that allowing the engine to turn on the starter alone when a new camshaft and lifters have been fitted will quickly see the camshaft ruined.

    The engine must be fired up straight away and then run at between 2000 to 2500 rpm for a good 20 minutes and no idling at all during this time.

    I appreciate that your engine will not start, so I am only offering some well intentioned advice.

    Ron.
    It's an interesting paradox - not being able to start your engine will lead to you not being able to start your engine.....

  2. #22
    sheerluck Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by POD View Post
    i'd suggest checking ignition timing with a timing light whilst cranking. Difficult to get it accurate with the method you describe. Also if you have another vehicle with a good battery plus a good set of jumper leads, you could give the starter a bit more oomph without buying another battery.
    Without wanting to sound like a smart arse, I did try jumping from another car, but still no good.

    I've bought a new battery now, a 710CCA Century battery. Damned thing feels heavy enough to jump start the Titanic!

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by sheerluck View Post
    Without wanting to sound like a smart arse, I did try jumping from another car, but still no good.

    I've bought a new battery now, a 710CCA Century battery. Damned thing feels heavy enough to jump start the Titanic!
    yeah sorry, was a bit 'suck eggs' wasn't it. Worth trying the timing light though.

  4. #24
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    I know you checked for spark, but at a plug too? Sometimes the rotor button burns or cracks through the bottom to the shaft.

    If the motor is tight perhaps a quick spin with the plugs out to get the oil light to go out, also spray some CRC down the plug holes. Put a plug in each lead while cranking to see if all are firing.

  5. #25
    sheerluck Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    I know you checked for spark, but at a plug too? Sometimes the rotor button burns or cracks through the bottom to the shaft.

    If the motor is tight perhaps a quick spin with the plugs out to get the oil light to go out, also spray some CRC down the plug holes. Put a plug in each lead while cranking to see if all are firing.
    Bee utey, I checked for a spark at all 8 plugs after pulling the fuel relay. All 8 gave me a good blue/white spark.

    The rotor is a Lucas original too.

    Another couple of days of this and I may have to call in the cavalry

  6. #26
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by sheerluck View Post
    Bee utey, I checked for a spark at all 8 plugs after pulling the fuel relay. All 8 gave me a good blue/white spark.


    Couple of things to confirm ...



    The passenger side front piston is No 1 .... Have you got it set up this way?

    Grab a can of Octane ... Areostart / startyabastard / Curcuit board cleaner ... Give it a short squirt up the manifold / butterfly area .... Does it fire up??

    Sure you haven't set the dizzy up 180 degrees out?? ... oldest gag in the book that 1 .. as you can set up TDC, but be on the wrong stroke (exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke)

    You installed a new chain ... So did you install it correctly?? ... Do the ol rocker cover off trick and set the piston up TDC & watch the rockers rock on number 8 ... Does the exhaust & intake valves rock, at exactly the mark, of rolling over TDC


    Hope there's something in the "above suggestions" you can use ...

    Cheers
    Mike

  7. #27
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    One more silly suggestion, is your starter drawing too much current? It could be stuffed? My RRC was a bugger to start until I threw the starter and replaced it with a good s/h Bosch unit. Try borrowing a good one from someone.

  8. #28
    mike 90 RR Guest

    Octane in a can ....


    I don't really like mentioning this product, because in the wrong hands it is dangerous ... But because this is a open forum and others are viewing ...





    They are HIGHLY flammable ... The motor does not need the liquid element ... The motor will fire up on it's fumes ...

    Use sparingly ... Keep all persons away from the engine bay
    The risk you run is that it can cause a gas explosion inside the plentium

    So have some fire retardant equipment at hand ... Just in case


    It is a usefull tool to figurer out if you have a fuel or spark problem ... If it does not fire up on the first squirt ... Then it won't fire up at all .... If you are going for a second squirt ... make sure you have turned the motor over a few times prior


    Use this stuff at your own risk

  9. #29
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    Fuel air and spark, you have spark, air is practically a given, you have fuel to the rail............is it injecting? you need to check for injector pulse

    Aerostart it, if it fires its fuel, if it doesn't its spark, this IS the quickest and easiest diagnostic tool you can have

    Let us know how the aerostart goes

    Oh, wouldn't worry about the cam, metallurgy has come along way and aslong as you used lots of assembly lube, you'll crank on the starter all day without worrying the camshaft

  10. #30
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by rovercare View Post
    .......is it injecting? you need to check for injector pulse
    Disconnect the MAF plug (wires) ... This will force the ECU to go into max fuel flow .... If it fires ... suspect the MAF





    Also ... Fuel side .... isn't there a wire, that triggers the ECU injector timing, off the coil? ... (Sorry, can't remember it's location)

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