I have had the same problem on rebuilt engines, I have done this a couple of times if everything seems to be fine heat the plugs in an oven then put them in the engine as quick as you can and start.
I have had the same problem on rebuilt engines, I have done this a couple of times if everything seems to be fine heat the plugs in an oven then put them in the engine as quick as you can and start.
disco seriesII mods so far:-bullbar,hyd winch,
detriot locker,lsd front,C.D.L kit,chipped and bigger intercooler,2" lift,rock sliders, lsd in transfer case, modified auto trans.
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Well I've got a definite diagnosis today.
After confirming that the valve/piston timing was set up correctly with rocker covers off (and yes my No 1 is definitely front cylinder on passenger side!), I replaced the battery and gave it a whirl.
And justinc, I checked thetwo plugs you mentioned. and thankfully they were definitely in the right place.
Starter did not even manage a full revolution. Removed it and tried direct from the battery and it only spun really slowly. I think it must have been borderline when I tested it the first time, and now it has died. I think it really must have been that it was spinning the engine too slowly for it to catch.
So, I'm hoping that this is the only problem, but firstly, where to find a replacement starter in Brisbane on a Sunday?
I don't want to be a pain in the arse, but in 40 years of mechanicing I and every other mechanic I have ever known put the crank at #1 TDC with both valves closed before inserting the dissy.
The Land Rover Workshop manual also agrees on page 40 V8 Engine sect.12, TDC #1, with #6 cyl valves on overlap, once the distibutor is in with the crank at TDC and the Vacuum advance hose disconnected and plugged, start the engine and adjust timing with a timing light.
As you have installed a new cam and lifters, I would rev the engine to at least 1500 rpm for around 1/2 an hour to bed the cam and lifters in.
Then adjust the timing to L/R specs or the most commonly used 6 degrees BTDC, you can always advance the dissy up a bit by hand while cranking if it is reluctant to start, but you must keep the revs up to bed the cam in, good luck, Regards Frank.
does British off road or Ricks do a call out service? they would have one,,,
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.![]()
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
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Thanks Frank,
I think we can put this one down to a good old LandRover inconsistency, the overhaul manual says one thing and the workshop manual another. I am strictly an amateur, in as much as I need someone else to tell me what is wrong, and then I can replace the oily bits with nice shiny bits, following the instructions in something like RAVE.
AS soon as I can get a replacement starter, I can then try again with the timing, and see where we go from there.
I don't know who publishes the Rave disc, but I do know that the dissy goes back in at #1 TDC then timing is adjusted at 800rpm (max) with a timing light and the Land Rover Discovery Workshop manual is published by the Technical Communication Department of Land Rover, Copyright Rover Group Limited
Lode Lane
Solihull
West Midlands, B92 8NW
England.
There are different timing figures depending on Comp. ratio, whether fitted with a Cat Conv. or not and what country.
Ignition Timing dynamic at 800rpm max., vacuum disconnected (hose plugged)
8.13:1 compression, non catalyst...........2degrees BTDC+or-1degree
8.13:1 catalyst....................................6d BTDC +or- 1d
9.35:1 compression, non catalyst............4d BTDC + or- 1d
9.35:1 catalyst....................................5d BTDC + or - 1d
You will of course notice that ignition timing is set with the motor running at at a max of 800rpm by using a timing light and rotating the dissy, not as the Rave disc states, Regards Frank.
I don't think the timing is that critical, if you somewhere near TDC it'll fire....or backfire if your 180 out
I don't follow any books, just dump it in at TDC, get it running, and anyway, optimum timing is just prior to detonation, which is set on the road, or running road until detonation is found then retarded justly.....not by book settings
in line with rovercare's comment. i once put the dizzy in 180 degree out (and will probably do it again one day too) and there was a definite popping/slight backfiring on some cylinders only. with a good crank rpm you will pick up the different sound to recognise whether it's in the right spot.
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