Thread: Swivel preload again

Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

Done a few ... Oil filled swivels ... No sealant (used new seal) ...

.... It never leaks
<snip>
Cheers
Mike

Mike

You have been lucky with swivel leaks then, because outside a worn seal, one of the two main reasons for leaking swivel housings is oil bypassing the seal face and leaking behind the seal between the housing and retainer. The other main reason for a leaky swivel seal is a poorly centred seal caused by too many shims on one side and too few on the other. (As explained by JD earlier.)

Diana

But removing the LH wheel and the tie rod and drag link connections immediately showed that there was virtually no preload - no more resistance to turning than would be expected from the seal. Which raises another point - although seals were replaced when the swivels were done, the LH seal was leaking slightly - not enough to describe as a weep, but enough for oil to creep over the whole swivel housing and collect dust. Maybe this was a symptom of where the problem lay, which I should have spotted immediately (I did the RH first because it only needs one TRE disconnecting).

Maybe I have poor comprehension but I have not seen WHY this happened on the thread.
The usual reason is that one of the bearing outers is not bashed completely home when being fitted.
Seeing it has moved I vote for bottom one.
I had a pesky shimmy in mine for 10-15K of ownership. I replaced everything that looked sus including tie rod ends that the detailer at the dealership had hit with the Gerni.
The only thing that looked good and didn't leak was the RH swivel. In desperation I tore it down and found the top bearing outer jacked slightly from NEW!!!Grrrrr.
So wait for that ringing true before stopping the bashing and take a good look.
Regard sPhilip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Maybe I have poor comprehension but I have not seen WHY this happened on the thread.
The usual reason is that one of the bearing outers is not bashed completely home when being fitted.
Seeing it has moved I vote for bottom one.
I had a pesky shimmy in mine for 10-15K of ownership. I replaced everything that looked sus including tie rod ends that the detailer at the dealership had hit with the Gerni.
The only thing that looked good and didn't leak was the RH swivel. In desperation I tore it down and found the top bearing outer jacked slightly from NEW!!!Grrrrr.
So wait for that ringing true before stopping the bashing and take a good look.
Regard sPhilip A

Phillip

Are you talking about 1948/RRc/Disco/etc swivels with tapered rollers top and bottom or the Series/110/County/?Defender type with the Railco bush/bearing at the top. The Series/110/etc type has a fibrous disk that wears and needs the removal of shims as part of the regular maintenance schedule.

Diana

Talking RRC/Disco.

I thought later 110 County /Defender was the same.
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Talking RRC/Disco.

I thought later 110 County /Defender was the same.
Regards Philip A

You could be right about later 110 and Defender (hence the /?Defender) as my knowledge doesn't extend to coilers!

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

You have been lucky with swivel leaks then,

.... Noted ...

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Talking RRC/Disco.

I thought later 110 County /Defender was the same.
Regards Philip A

Defender is, not sure about the old County.

Originally Posted by Scouse

Defender is, not sure about the old County.

Unless I am mistaken, Series Landrovers started with roller bearings top and bottom, but from May 1950 used a conical steel top pin spring loaded against a brass conical bush, changing to a roller bearing bottom and Railko bush top, for all Series Landrovers from about Series 2a suffix 'C' on, and (same idea but not the same bits) on RRC, 90/110/Defender, Disco 1, from the first RRC until the introduction of ABS or teflon coated balls (not sure which) when they changed back to a top roller bearing.

John