Thread: What did you do on your Landy today?

Originally Posted by Bushie

That's why I ordered two (still got both as well )


Martyn

Not only that, but I'd found a bit of chain and a screw anchor a few days before to use to secure it

Started replacing the door seals on the 2a which took longer then i expected,none of the holes on the seals didnt line up with the holes around the door.

Well yesterday gave the girl a wash, then today fitted up a spare uhf antennae to the LR head unit.... was getting lots of 'noise' which was apparently caused by the metallic film on the rear windows. Only a problem with AM radio but that's what I listen the during the day as I like talk radio.
Worked a treat and I reckon I'll get better range out of this too.

I replace the blown 15 amp fuse, (number 17) to stop and reverse lights, twice!

Checked the wire from the chassis to the lights and found nothing to cause concern. Pulled the bulbs dusted and reinstalled them, still without seeing any problems.

Tried the reverse lights, no problem. Then tried the brake lights, good as gold.
As I run an extra 100 watt reverse light, I then tried the reverse light and the brakes together, the 15 amp fuse blew.

Ah!

2x 21W brakes lights, plus the 1x 100W, 2x 12W reverse lights, plus a 1x 5W reversing sensor, this equals 171 Watts.

full capacity battery = 14.2 volts, loaded battery volts = 13.0 volts.

P / E = I
∴ 171W / 14.2V = 12.04225 amps
∴ 171W / 13.0V = 13.15395 amps

So with the bulbs instantaneous current also involved, the fuse has exceeded its 15 amp rating.
A stronger fuse is required and as the wiring size is capable of greater then 20 amps, a 20 amps fuse is what has been installed for now.

Further investigation is required, this time with a 'Fluke' amp meter, as I'm still thinking that moisture and dust in something like the trailer wiring socket is causing enough current leakage along with the current drawn by the total of the light blubs to cause the trouble.

When the fault is finally located and dealt with, I will able to throw buckets of money at some led blubs, that will sort it for sure.

Cheers Arthur

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

I replace the blown 15 amp fuse, (number 17) to stop and reverse lights, twice!

Checked the wire from the chassis to the lights and found nothing to cause concern. Pulled the bulbs dusted and reinstalled them, still without seeing any problems.

Tried the reverse lights, no problem. Then tried the brake lights, good as gold.
As I run an extra 100 watt reverse light, I then tried the reverse light and the brakes together, the 15 amp fuse blew.

Ah!

2x 21W brakes lights, plus the 1x 100W, 2x 12W reverse lights, plus a 1x 5W reversing sensor, this equals 171 Watts.

full capacity battery = 14.2 volts, loaded battery volts = 13.0 volts.

P / E = I
∴ 171W / 14.2V = 12.04225 amps
∴ 171W / 13.0V = 13.15395 amps

So with the bulbs instantaneous current also involved, the fuse has exceeded its 15 amp rating.
A stronger fuse is required and as the wiring size is capable of greater then 20 amps, a 20 amps fuse is what has been installed for now.

Further investigation is required, this time with a 'Fluke' amp meter, as I'm still thinking that moisture and dust in something like the trailer wiring socket is causing enough current leakage along with the current drawn by the total of the light blubs to cause the trouble.

When the fault is finally located and dealt with, I will able to throw buckets of money at some led blubs, that will sort it for sure.

Cheers Arthur

or spend 5 minutes and $10 on a relay for the 100 watt reverse light and problem will be solved and the load on the wiring and reverse switch lessened.

Originally Posted by Rosscoe68

or spend 5 minutes and $10 on a relay for the 100 watt reverse light and problem will be solved and the load on the wiring and reverse switch lessened.

Hi Rosscoe68

Relay's all ready been done, still looking for the fault though.
I've had the relay installed for a while, just reinstated it, after the fault appeared again, I wrote the story as I was trying to get the idea of using Ohms law through to some that don't have a great grasp on electronics.

This fault is one of those annoying things that come and then go just as quick, just to look for the fault, usually fixes the problem when it's disturbed.
I had taken the relay out of the circuit, when this fault first appeared over a year ago, it only reappeared yesterday, so its not the relay at fault.

Cheers Arthur

Decided to burn it

Originally Posted by stealth

Just had my Defender serviced and the mechanic rang to tell me when he drained the oil the sump was way overfilled by about 3 times. The extra fluid was diesel mixed in with the oil. He traced it down to a faulty O ring on an injector. Hopefully it has been picked up before any damage was done. Makes me wonder why you would design an engine like that??? Where a failure can result in fuel leaking inside the engine!!!!!!!!! Just glad I wasn't travelling through the middle of the outback.

Was advised by mechanic to monitor the problem which I did. And watched the sump gaining diesel again. Back for another look and this time he located the real problem. Crack in the head under where one of the injectors are located. Can't be repaired so needs a new head. 03 model 180,000km. Waiting for the bill.