What did you do on your Landy today?

New front shocks refitted the dc shaft after a grease and fitted raised springs to rear:cool:

Replaced the shocks on the D2 with some Bilsteins. The Monroes were totally had it, they were on when I got it though:) Installed headlight levelers that I scored off evilbay:D They will help stop flash from others when the trailers on I hope.
Cheers Scott

What am I doing to my LR today? Well I'm gradually working through the string of issues with my 1977 (I think) Game and currently stripping it back for some welding. The major problem with the vehicle is rust (surprise!) and I should probably stop wasting my time, but the car has been in the family for at least 25 years and my Landrover fanatic brother would regard scrapping it as 'murder'.

So I'm working from the front to the back - in fact the major rust problems are from the chassis member under the bellhousing forward so I hope that with the engine and gearbox out I can get the welding done that is needed. The first attachment shows how far I've got - this takes me much more time than some of the people on this site!!

The front chassis member has rust very close to the relay box - indeed this rust was why I have taken the vehicle off the road. The (poor) second photo shows the worst of the rust and I'm assuming that it cannot be properly fixed with the relay box in situ. Removing a series steering relay seems to be a rite of passage for all Aulrovians at some stage and this one is acting true to form. Currently the vehicle is jacked up with a block under the steering relay and I'm vainly waiting to see the relay let go and slide out! [Hope springs eternal].

There is some rust in the firewall - the only significant amount is in the driver's footwell and I'll have that welded up when/if the chassis gets fixed.

And the final major matter is the chassis member under the bellhousing (4'th attachment I hope). This chassis component has taken a hammering over the years as the vehicle has done a lot of pretty rough miles here in NQ! Some work has been done on this chassis component years ago, but I'm hoping to get it tarted up.

So between the other chores around the house I hope to have the relay out and the engine out over the next 2 days, and then I'll transport it to the welder (I am the world's worst welder so cannot do this work) to get a professional to do the difficult/skillful tasks!!

Michael

Hmm, big job Michael.

You really should stop kidding yourself as to who really doesn't want to get rid of it, as in you or your brother. I don't see him here on the forum now ehh? ;)
Would he be fanatic #1, or #2? :p

Wow i wish my x member under the bellhousing looked that good. My landy came from Mackay and its been hammered on that x member and its had another rear x member grafted from an 88", i know this coz its still got the rear spring hangers attatched. I had to grind the 88" chassis number off for rego here in SA. Anyway good luck with the steering relay. I guess i was lucky with my relay as i just undone the two long bolts and it lifted out. Just for ur information the front relay xmember with both front dumb irons is available as a complete replacement part. I think russelrovers has it or can get it i recollect a thread with it in here. Hope it helps u.

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

Had another go at the speedo on the 2a. The problem seemed to be particles of dust bettween the aluminium disc and the fram of the unit, which were jamming the disc.

I sprayed the gap with contact cleaner, and a short roadtest seems to show it is now working, albeit that it seems to be installed with a lean to the right of about ten degrees.

I will have to correct that, and take it for a longer road test where I can get out on a road and travel above 40kph.

John

I finally got to grinding some welds back smooth and spring hangers flat where the bolts go through and bushes sit. They were damaged due to loose bolts and worn bushes. Had to buy a 9" grinder coz the 5" grinder head wouldnt fit between the "legs". Then got the die grinder out and made the bolt holes round after i fill welded them coz they were oval. Thats the welding done for now till i can turn the chassis over and lower the rear end back down and raise the front up and clean it out again with the hose. Need another warm day now to dry it out afterwards. :thumbup:

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

Realised the passenger's headlight wss gone over the weekend. No problem, right?
Get the headlight out and the previous owner has done a so-so LED conversion. Now have to wait for new LED bulbs to show io before I put it back together.

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Nothing. Today.
Last week I replaced the swivel balls and all associated seals and bearings to go with it.
Whilst the swivel housings were out I had a drain and inspection holes drilled and tapped into them so I am now running the CV's in oil like the older models.

It's a 2000 130.

Thank god I shouldn't have to do that job any time soon.

Test running on the bench of a 300 TDi, made it necessary to find a serpentine belt to run the engine without the power steering pump being driven.

I found the first belt I ordered was way too tight to fit ( 7PK1385 ), so while I asked the supplier for another size, I mentioned that the previous belt size that I had ordered from them was wrong and that it was my mistake. The shop assistant insisted that they would swap it over for the next belt provided it was as new, which it was. :)

I seems when I measured the length around the pulleys, I didn't allow for half the diameter of the spring loaded idler pulley. The new belt was slightly longer than what I was seeking ( 1425 mm ) but does fit and will do the job.

The serpentine belt that fits all the pulleys except the power steering pump pulley on the 300 TDi engine is a 'Dayco 7PK1432 Auto Poly RIB Belt'.
This belt as a standard fitment for vehicles found here; DAYCO 7PK1432 V-Ribbed Belts
.