What did you do on your Landy today?

Stop light switch stopped working on the Disco. So got another one to replace it from repco. What a rather awkward piece of :censored: to replace. Must say it must be in my top ten jobs that I don`t like the most to do on cars. Getting up under the dash and around the pedals. Get the nut finally in place, then go to screw switch into nut, lose traction on the nut and it drops, repeat several times and several more times till I finally managed to get nut and switch to screw together. Easy enough to remove though.
Tried to have a look at the internals of the old switch to see if I could get it working. Due to it`s age the plastic had hardened, so when I tried to unclip the end section a clip broke. So that was when a new switch was brought.
Cheers Hall

Ok, went out to s3 today and fitted small van type roof rack with plate attatched for uhf aerial base mounting. Routed the cable to inside the cabin. Then removed left door to try to get rusted doortop free of the door. Both nuts just snapped off, so turned door upside down to soak the bolts with wd40, penetrene, crc. No luck. Top wouldnt move. Didnt want to apply heat coz didnt want to damage the fragile paintwork. So i hammered a chisel in the gap between the door and the top. Was going to cut the bolt with a hacksaw but the front bolt broke free of the top. Then I twisted the top but the second bolt broke off. Success, the top was off. Now to remove the broken bolts from the door. Soaked them again, tapping gently from side to side, up and down, no luck, they were rusted solid in the door. So ground the bolts flat and centre punched and drilled the bolts thru in ever increasing sizes. Eventually got one out. Then while drilling the second one the drill went off to one side and came out well off centre. So I drilled thru from the outer side. Was going well till the drill bit snapped off in the hole. I was lucky I had a small punch and was able to remove broken bits. It came out in three pieces. So I got a bigger bit and drilled thru again. Eventually got the remains of other bolt out. Refitted door. Now to somehow refit the door top. Dropped a long bolt thru the front hole in the door top. Cut a square out of the rear of the top frame and removed what was left of the bolt, an hourglass shaped bit of rusted metal about 2mm thick, and fitted another bolt in the hole, then refitted the rusted hulk of the doortop and tightened the 2 bolts down to keep the s3 secured, as it sits out on my driveway. Now the hunt is on for 2 new doortops and some window channel kits. Maybe next year. Unless someone has a couple they dont need?? :thumbup::thumbup:

Cheers Rod

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Originally Posted by 67hardtop

----- Now the hunt is on for 2 new doortops and some window channel kits. -----

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Hi Rod

With a door top off and under your arm, trot into a sheet metal shop and get them to have a look.

Most times the aluminium skin can be salvaged and the frame can be folded up from zinc-alloy coated steel sheet.

I'll put a order in for a pair of frame to suit one of my 2A's. :BigThumb:

Not so much do 'to' it as what I did 'at' it...
As in I swore continually at it, cos the stupid damn alarm still keeps going off :mad:

Yesterday had the O ring in the fuel cooler replaced, along with the front driveshaft with as the pivot point in the cardan joint was shagged.

Also helped a forumite remap his Td5 with the nanocom.

Today just meant topping up the coolant after the level settled down a bit lower than normal from yesterday's refill.

Still plumbing in my water to air intercooler, sooo little room

Well another day working on the s3. Getting ready for a "mystery cruise" with lrregsa on sunday. Tried to remove the big galv steel front bar. Bolts were too long and they snapped anyway. As anyone will know the front bar bolts are a PITA to get to anyway espesh when the bar is not original and very wide. Trouble i had was the bolts snapped about 20mm up from the nuts and coz the thread was so long past the nuts it was almost impossible to remove the bottom broken bits of bolt. I was able to move the bar up and down to get the "legs" to spread apart enough to get the top of the bar to be pushed up then i used my large snapon pry bar to bend the threaded parts of the 4 bolts away from the spring hanger and finally get them out and the bar off. What a job. I might have been able to undo the bolts if the PO had used high tensile bolts. Anyway the front hangers are a little rusty but im not in a position to repair them just yet. So i fitted the roo bar that i bought a few yrs ago that came with a manual winch ($70) from flea bay. New grade 8 tensile bolts and washers. Looks good. The winch is actuated by the original crank handle. I think its a period thing coz its well made with nice thick cable too. Will try paint it tomorrow if i get time. Took some pics this time. Forgot yesterday when i was fiddling with door top. That was frustrating...grr.


Cheers Rod


Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

Got framed in a video about Land Rover enthusiasts.

Fixed 'Fred's' ABS brake warning light with a paper clip and then changed a headlight and the headlight cup over in the Defender with a new reflector and another cup from a Range Rover parts donor.

But forgot to hang the washing out!!! :bangin:
.

Bashed and bent rubbed down and painted the l/h front guard on the 109. Hopefully its better than it was.


Remembered to hang the washing out.
cheers,
D

Replaced the panhard rod bushs on the Disco with some poly 1s. Was just starting to get a mild wobble over corrugations. Fitted up a fleabay dash cam to record those unwanted moments for posterity :D Fitted 2 merit sockets into the space where the left side rear seat stereo controls normally live, looks neat and easy to reach from passenger rear door. Hopefully up out of the way of stuff that could break or pull plugs out. dumped some rad cleaner into the defender in prep for a coolant change later in the week.
Cheers Scott