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Well, day started out OK.
Paint on BB had cured for a couple of days and it was time to fit the Ox Hyd in.
All sort of went OK with the only problem being that I had pulled the winch out of a bar where it was mounted "bottom front" and directly to the cable reeve, and of course without tension cable drum had "sproinged". Needed to undo the connecting bars to get the cable out enough for the "from the side feed" in this bar; and of course due to the sprung cable had to pull out meters to get the winch doun onto the mount. ..................and misdrilled holes.......Just a thread depth out :mad:
Anyway, next, the Solenoid operated remote shuttle valve, mount on the cross member, drilled and tapped, just enough thickness to take a M6.
Finally, lift and fit the bar mit OX. Bloody heavy! Needed tackle.
Did think my main problems would be customising the hydraulics - hoses, routing and unions. No. Well not yet.
Bloody nut plates need to be fitted into very very small holes in chassis, can't even get a finger in, never mind hold the nut plate. Is this OEM? If so must have used a bloody robot! Any clues?
So quit for the day - had enough - getting to old for this sort of ****.
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Went and got multiple quotes for repairs for roo damage on disco. Despite already having a quote as stated by insurer when claim phoned through, I now need two from "approved repairers".
First one "Don't want the job"
Second "Can quote it but it'll be high enough to write it off 'cause we don't want the job"
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OK I thought to myself that its time for new plug leads for the 4.6 in the RRC because I got rid of the original 14CUX ECU, MAF and the distributor and put in an MSII Extra ECU with MSD coil packs about 2 months ago. Got a set of 8mm Bosch motorsport leads from Perfomance Ignitions in Melb to fit the coil pack towers. Got it all connected no probs, take it for a run and there is an intermittent misfire hmmm, put the old leads on and no random misfire, new leads back in and misfire is back. Check the leads again and spoke with Andrew at Performance Ignitions who suggested I try resistor spark plugs. Problem solved, looks like the new leads had much less resistance, as you would expect but this somehow would result in random ECU resets. Ah the joys of modifications!
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3 Attachment(s)
Today! Well two day :)
Got the nutplates for the bar in yesterday courtesy of a mod from oldyella 76. Worked a treat (photos now on good oil) Was PoP :D
Spent lots of time figuring out power for the solenoid controller and locating the plug under the bonnet. Wonder how many people have complained about the lack of room to stick anything, and the always having to go back to the box under the seat :( Anyway took most of yesterday arvo, but was done. Only needed to hook up the hyd power. Tomorrow.
Today - hook up the pump. First find the right PAS Fluid. Penrite is the name with LR on the bottle :) Then of course one gets to bathe in the stuff. :eek:
Unlike my previous Discos, clamping the supply line didn't sort of work. Once the connection at the pump was undone, pump was fine, just a dribble. The bath is/was from the other end [tonguewink]. Steering unit drained out! Must be due to a difference in relative heights. Great fun was had by all wrestling stiff hydraulic hoses and unions all covered in PAS fluid. Forearm also found a sharp burr on the chassis which had not been taken off at build, add some blood to the mixture :dbcry:
Did say before, getting to old for this ****e.
Anyway all in and hooked up hydraulically and electrically and it all worked first time and best of all no leaks:banana:
However, thinks I did make a wee error. When tying everything up and together did notice that the winch supply and return hoses might be in the arc of the tie rod, at full spring and bump stop compression. "Crap" more work, but not now!
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Replaced the Ashcroft clone CDL lever in the D2 with a modified version of the factory lever sold by a UK based member.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...ml#post1680110
Initial impressions: quieter due to sealed back, and much more positive shift action. :cool:
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The right rear window of my D2 would not shut, removed the switch panel from the centre console, connected the left connector to the right switch, worked well, stuffed switch. removed switch, took it apart, only 2 moving parts [ brass rocker type contacts]. After finding the only moving parts on the floor where they dropped, cleaned the black gunk off, put back together, connected up, EUREKA! it worked. Took the switch out, turned it 180 degrees [ up was down, down was up] all good. Locked D2 up, walked to football club to celebrate , LG. Bob :D
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Have noticed the rear of the RRC bouncing so took off my Billies to get them rebuilt sometime. Bad luck as one has the dreaded Billy dent, and has lost some gas as well as it didn't push up past a hard spot . So one of the Billies is I suspect a write off.
To be fair they have done Savannah, GRR, Kalumburu, Cape York etc.
A have an NOS pair of cheapo Armstrongs on now.
Changed the rear disc pads while there. While not worn out the EBC "black" standard type pads are the worst I have used . Noisy, hard and have a plastic anti noise backing which compresses and splits under hard braking towing. Fitted cheapo Mintex from UK which have no backing but who knows. Time will tell.
Regards Philip A
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Decided it was getting hot enough for air-con in the Defender today (or another display of futility). After replacing the failing air-con tensioner pulley bearing, and putting the new belt on, I refitted the serpentine and left for a birthday lunch 15kms down the road.
After about 10kms, a noticeable squeaking noise was getting almost unbearable. So, a quick inspection revealed the spare groove on the alternator pulley was on the wrong side of the serpentine belt. Quick swap, and hey presto, no more squeak!
Now, WTF is the point of the extra groove on the alternator pulley?!
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Got to experience the joys of re-attaching the passenger side mirror to it's motor after a mate thoughtfully removed it for me with a soccer ball :mad:
Simple job, just fiddly as it requires tweaking of the angle, and the controls are on the drivers side :(
But, I got it done :)
