Thread: What did you do on your Landy today?

Originally Posted by d2dave

When it comes to whitworth and UNC threads, 1/4 to 7/16 are the same and will interchange, but 1/2 inch they a different.

They only interchange if you are wearing your striped apron - Whitworth threads are 55degrees but Unified threads are 60degrees thread profile.


With typical manufacturing tolerances the sizes specified will screw into each other, but are insecure and have a load bearing capability significantly lower than if matching fasteners are used.

John

Poked more holes in the rusty chassis rails of my D2.

There goes my hopes of taking this vehicle to NZ later this year when we move (wife's a Kiwi and homesick after 7 years). The plus side is that I may be able to convince her that a D3 is a worthy upgrade...

Replaced D2 stereo with single DIN Kenwood job. Bluetooth, USB, line in etc. Very impressed. Cheap and easy upgrade. Plug and play when combined with the adaptor harness for another $14.95. 20mins task. Not sure why I put it off for this long!

Sent from my GT-I9100 using AULRO mobile app

Originally Posted by sjane

Replaced D2 stereo with single DIN Kenwood job. Bluetooth, USB, line in etc. Very impressed. Cheap and easy upgrade. Plug and play when combined with the adaptor harness for another $14.95. 20mins task. Not sure why I put it off for this long!

Sent from my GT-I9100 using AULRO mobile app

What model of Kenwood sjane? How much did it set you back and where from?

Originally Posted by ROAMER_AUS

What model of Kenwood sjane? How much did it set you back and where from?

Supercheap have the KDC-U559 on sale $159, was $219. The matching harness is $14.95 so you don't need to splice any cables. I originally wanted the JVC mechless which is $118, but the quality of the controls on the Kenwood felt better. A nice touch is the ability to set the illumination to different colours to match the stock instrument lighting, and it comes with an external mic for better quality handsfree calling. I mounted that at the top of the a-pillar.

For the record, there are no other mods necessary, the gap left below the stock 1.5DIN unit is already covered.

Cheers, Scott.

Originally Posted by sjane

Supercheap have the KDC-U559 on sale $159, was $219. The matching harness is $14.95 so you don't need to splice any cables. I originally wanted the JVC mechless which is $118, but the quality of the controls on the Kenwood felt better. A nice touch is the ability to set the illumination to different colours to match the stock instrument lighting, and it comes with an external mic for better quality handsfree calling. I mounted that at the top of the a-pillar.

For the record, there are no other mods necessary, the gap left below the stock 1.5DIN unit is already covered.

Cheers, Scott.

Thanx for the info Shane!

Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app

Fitted the Uniden UHF after figuring out a route for the aerial wire from the gutter mount on the driver's side down the outside of the snorkel next to the windscreen, under the bonnet, across the top of the firewall, down to the chassis, along and then up into the battery box under the front passenger's seat and out into the cabin. Used lots of cable ties, including long ones around the snorkel. Mounted the UHF next to the drover's seat attached to the side of the centre console, ran power and earth to the battery, connected the aerial and she worked! Having the aerial on the roof should give much better signal reception and transmission than on the bullbar, plus the aerial can be folded down to lay flat in the roof gutter when not needed. The gutter mount was worth every $ of the $25 cost, I reckon.
I've continued the quest to reduce rattles from the rear of the Defender. Fitting the rear wheel carrier got rid of most, but there was still some banging on bad corrugations.
I can be a bit slow, so it took me a while to realise the culprit might not necessarily only be the rear door. Poking around underneath the rear seat I noticed a plastic bump stop on one side above a steel mounting with a piece of rubber between them. On the other side the rubber was missing and the seat could be jerked hard to cause the bump stop to hit the mounting. Had a light bulb moment, poked around in the BIL's shed (we're away on holiday) and found a piece of flat rubber, cut off a section and shoved it into the gap - banging much reduced!
Also found some rubber stripping apparently originally fitted in the grooves of a Rhino rack, but now cut into sections. Found two sections the right length and tried them right across the rear door opening on the galvanised strip, on the theory the bottom of the door might be striking the metal strip when the door flexes on corrugations. Shut the door and it fitted perfectly, with the door feeling much tighter in position, so I glued it down and left it overnight. Going for a drive on a badly corrugated road today so we'll see if it worked.
Gotta love improvisation!

Leaking from underneath...............best immediate supply Britpart at near $200. Grrr. Easy to change though.

Old Expansion Tank has a tapered moulded port on the underside. ? maybe for a sensor? This is where its leaking from. Too late now, but could it be filled with epoxy as a solution?

I need another spare part in the shed. It could keep all the other brown boxes happy.