Thread: What did you do on your Landy today?

Mick, I had my seals "fixed/replaced" at first service by LR, so I'm not sure if thick or thin, but I found one of the main things was they keep coming away from the ridge they sit on. I have to keep pushing them back on, one day I'll get around to getting some silacone to stick them on properly. (considering I work at a silicone packaging place, you'd think I'd have done this like three years ago )

Something I was told a couple of years ago, was to remove the plastic cover from on top of the motor to enable to help keep it a bit cooler. When I fit up my Catch Can in the next two weeks, I'll do that to see how it goes.

Originally Posted by Chops

Mick, I had my seals "fixed/replaced" at first service by LR, so I'm not sure if thick or thin, but I found one of the main things was they keep coming away from the ridge they sit on. I have to keep pushing them back on, one day I'll get around to getting some silacone to stick them on properly. (considering I work at a silicone packaging place, you'd think I'd have done this like three years ago )

Something I was told a couple of years ago, was to remove the plastic cover from on top of the motor to enable to help keep it a bit cooler. When I fit up my Catch Can in the next two weeks, I'll do that to see how it goes.

Yes, I know what you mean. I wanted extra seals on the doors because there is only a seal on the bottom of the doors. I have fitted a thin seal on the body to butt up to the seal on the door bottom. I will run a thin seal all around the doors.
The Clark Rubber ones can be had with tear-off strips and then they just stick to the metal and closing the doors keeps them in place. Much easier than mucking around with glue.

So, over the last three weeks, due to time constraints etc, have done a full fluid change, as in engine, diffs, gearbox and transfer case.
A bit of a learning curve too I might add.
I've been building/working on gearboxes for like some 18 years or so, and I made a fundamental mistake when doing the gearbox on Monday night.
Not looking properly, stressed with a crook back, I managed to undo the wrong bolt (filler plug). As its coming out, I'm thinking, "geez, this is heavy on the thread", then as it pops out, it has a very well machined boss/point on it., looking very like a detent type point . As I look back at the box, I see another, just like it,,, double .
I don't do manual gearboxes, so I "phone a friend", well two actually. All good,,, move nothing, re-insert, and away you go All good in theory. But as it turned out, all good in practice too

Originally Posted by Chops

So, over the last three weeks, due to time constraints etc, have done a full fluid change, as in engine, diffs, gearbox and transfer case.
A bit of a learning curve too I might add.
I've been building/working on gearboxes for like some 18 years or so, and I made a fundamental mistake when doing the gearbox on Monday night.
Not looking properly, stressed with a crook back, I managed to undo the wrong bolt (filler plug). As its coming out, I'm thinking, "geez, this is heavy on the thread", then as it pops out, it has a very well machined boss/point on it., looking very like a detent type point . As I look back at the box, I see another, just like it,,, double .
I don't do manual gearboxes, so I "phone a friend", well two actually. All good,,, move nothing, re-insert, and away you go All good in theory. But as it turned out, all good in practice too

Sounds like the sort of thing i would do, it would have been a golden moment

Well, last night actually. Hooked the trailer up for a trip to Yass tomorrow, and checked the lights. No stop light.

"Oh, it will be the plug!"

It wasn't. I had to delve into the taped up rats nest behind the fuel filler.

The original installation of the trailer socket seems to have been very poorly done. I was unable to work out just how it was wired (the trailer stop light was connected to a wire that according to the circuit diagram was for the rear fog light that has never existed), and eventually ended up connecting the trailer to the stop light on the car, which was working. When I get back, I plan on delving more deeply into the rats nest and figure out exactly what is going on.

John

Finally got back home & the elusive camera cable.

The exhaust wrap seems to drop the gear box temp, as measured by the TMS4 by 10-15 degrees in slow heavy going. On a long run maybe 5 as it must get heat soak down the drive line.
A massive drop in cubby box, hand brake and floor temps

Probably the cheapest & best thing i have done

Engine blanket & hood liner to dampen noise

Certainly made a difference on a long trip.
Minimal if any change in Engine Temp as measured by TMS4
Blanket was warm, not hot after a long run to Bundaberg

The fridge location worked out well.

Picked up the awnings I had made to fit the sail track pop riveted to either side of the roof . one at 2.8 x 2.5m the other balance of material 2.8 x 1.250 .

AM