Thread: Disco 2 Front prop-shaft ???

Originally Posted by uninformed

hey all,

does anyone know if there is any REAL difference between the V8 and TD5 front propshaft on Disco 2, other than $$$ and a part number?

cheers,
Serg

No difference, they are the same.

Baz.

I thought the difference had something to do with the boot on the slip joint

I figured youd be the one to know...was that a joke re the boot??? as there is quite a price difference between the 2...or so I have been told.

I have also heard that you can get them built with better/stronger unis and a greasable carden??? any truth to this?

Serg

Originally Posted by uninformed

I figured youd be the one to know...was that a joke re the boot??? as there is quite a price difference between the 2...or so I have been told.

I have also heard that you can get them built with better/stronger unis and a greasable carden??? any truth to this?

Serg

Hi Serg, thanks. No, I was being quite serious about the boot. Apparently the propshaft come close to the manifold so they used a different boot on it. I'm not sure why they didn't just run the same boot on both shafts and be done with it.

You can get them rebuilt, but to be honest with a given yolk you are constrained to the unis that they are designed for with regards to size. You can rebuild it using servicable uni joints, but the uni joints are no stronger and infact probably weaker due to the inclusion of passages but the part that fails are the bearings in the cap. What I see happening on mine is the centre bearing fails and I actually think that this precipitates a failure of the uni bearings, but you cant see a failed centre bearing like you can the unis and so the unis get blamed. The centre bearing fails when the lube goes dry, and even with a rebuild using servicable parts you still are not able to lube the centre bearing and it will go dry. I haven't had the servicable joints last any longer than the standard ones in my experience. The stanard unis are 1300's also.

In my opinion the best option is to give Tom Woods an email/call or whatever. He is about the only person that I know of that are making good shafts for these things. The old TW ones had 1310 unis which I don't think I've ever managed to break. Even if a centre bearing has failed the uni joint has still remained usable and when I have rebuilt the only thing that I've changed has been the centre bearing. The shafts don't need adaptors either. The big thing now is that he has manufactured his own socket flanges from cast steel which is stronger than cast iron and he has included the gear in it so that the centre bearing can be greased. Since getting these shafts I've had absolutely no problems, and thats going from an 11-12 life span on 1300 shaft and about 2.5years on the 1310 shaft. I expect that these ones will last the car now.

From what I've read from the reports on the double cardan ends the centering pin fails first as they really suffer from lack of lube and are exposed to both loss of lube and ingress of contaminant. Especially under the A/C drain.

I don't have one yet but it's on the list, the woods shafts and fittings are basically designed to get around all the issues of off the shaft including apparent reduction of strength with the grease ports. The ave angle achievable from his unis are 30deg and with a little machining (his work) go to 35deg. They are on par price wise with a good custom built shaft made here but with a warranty you won't find anywhere else.

I've found that his shafts are cheaper than stockers, built ones and especially local 1310 spicer shafts. You'll land them at your door in 5 working days for probably something around $550 give or take.

Lucky8 do a kit for the rear to replace with a new 1310 shaft, diff flange and nut etc for less than a new genuine shaft and donut.

Originally Posted by clubagreenie

Lucky8 do a kit for the rear to replace with a new 1310 shaft, diff flange and nut etc for less than a new genuine shaft and donut.

That looks like a really good kit!