Mine is mounted under the tray of the 110 the intake has a push lock fitting on it so I just pushed in a nylon hose and ran it up to the battery box with a fuel filter pushed in to the end of it. Mines a d3 compressor if yours is similar I would do something like that . Other wise I have had no problems with it getting wet or dirty
Classic EAS intake is hidden in the RH rear panel, near the fuel filler. - There's a foam filter that crumbles into sticky particulate stuff....and destroys the compressor's reed valves.
Access is through the inner RH side - panel, behind the sub-woofer if your car has one.
- Which is why "no-one" services them... Ask me how I know !
(The cause of my valve failure, not checked after 70K, if at all. Dead before 140K)
James in Gosnells
'95 Classic Vogue SE with 'working' EAS... sort-of... (BBS EAS kicker is my Friend.)
"...is it a matter of finding something that will do the job?"
Simple answer: - Yes. To filter and to muffle.
We used to use (at my work) those Z14K disposable plastic in-line fuel filters for our small vacuum pumps. Would imagine WAY better than OEM. - which was large-cell broken foam.
I'd get a T -piece to put two filters in parallel to keep intake restriction low(er)... but only if you convince yourself that a single filter is'nt enough !
The bigger the filter area, the less flow resistance, better the filtration and the longer your re-conditioned compressor is going to last.
I just evicted the foam and replaced it with a big chunk of polyester packing from the dog's teddy-bear.
Dog has'nt noticed yet...![]()
Last edited by superquag; 13th August 2012 at 08:35 PM. Reason: yet mor werds... Sorry. !
Dog hasn't noticed...
What year classic have you got superquag?
Evo![]()
1995 Softdash Vogue SE with the (fragile) 3.9 serpentine V8 and the BW transfer case abomination.. - May the fleas of a Thousand camels infest the designer's armpits...-.
- Built July 1994
EAS is standard, pump and valve body overhauled and works, apart from a small leak in one of the LH rear valves... - solved for the present by using the 'self-rescue' system I installed when the (4) new Arnotts springs went in.
Also has the "Disable" connector replaced with a switch mounted on the seat-support.
James in Gosnells
Hmmm...
Interesting...
Might have to organise to meet up with you sometime to compare/check out rangies.
I'm in Gosnells too, so can't be too far off.
Whats the difference with the serpentine 3.9's?
Evo![]()
Last street in Gosnells, facing the Tonkin/Corefield bridge...
'Everyone' here warns about never-ever overheating the engine... 'cos the liners will go walk-a-bout. LR were too cheap/stupid/evil to install Top-Hat ones...Even getting too hot for an extended period is Not a Good Idea, so its been hinted. Apparantly the 3.5 is more forgiving.
To re-con properly in a workshop can be very expensive...and you still get a thirsty engine no matter what.
Serpentine,means one belt that wanders all over the place and drives everything on the front of the engine. They also can drive off the inner or outer face, so can spin more pulleys and in both directions as required.
Expensive and shorter life (?) than V-belts which can only drive a maximum of 3 pulleys effectively.
I'm up behind the Railway Markets myself.
Have heard about the overheating, but I'm very conscious of all fluid levels, etc, before, and during, driving anywhere.
I don't think I have a sub-woofer, but I have a cd stacker behind the rhs boot panel.
Is there an easier way to check this? Say just remove the line that goes to the intake and cut it, then feed a new line off the compressor to a different, easier to access location?
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks