remove the drive flange, drill in the 2 holes about 90 degrees apart tap them then use a grub screw with some 567 or a pan head bolt with a copper washer to seal them up, put the flange back on
to fill put one hole at 3/9 oclock and fill with the one thats at 12 oclock till oil comes out the next one
to check put the holes at 10/2 and slowly turn till the 3/9 position and oil creeps up the thread.
to drain jack up the wheel, turn till its at 6 oclock and then lower it, then jack up the other side
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Dave, just making sure I get this right, remove all internal seals? The half shaft ones don't fit due to larger diameter axles. And do you remove the ones in the spindle??? I hope so as the ones that came in my kit are to small on the ID. I have aftermarket flanges so presume these keep all the oil in.
I did this on a toy conversion but was a few years ago and can't remember.
Buy the way I am putting my swivels back together today so need an answer, or I could just clean the shed whilst I wait.![]()
Clean & empty the shed.... lash out on some decent shelves, small boxes, large stick-on labels and marker pen.
- You'll be amazed at what you find buried in there.![]()
nah, think I'll just turn the stereo up and crack open a cold one (after 12 of course)
need to get front end back together so I can move car to make way for hoist, then the shed gets a tidy up!
Anyway, fairly sure I don't need the spindle to stub axle seal.
The only seals you need to keep are,
paper gasket on the lower swivel bearing retainer,
RTC3511 hub seal,
swivel ball seal,
Drive flange seal, paper gasket or sealant
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
Thought so, well I've come to a stand still, it looks like in 'the great Isuzu engine conversion of 2013', my front hubs in a cleaning frenzy have made it into the skip bin and a never to be seen again.
So now I need to chase some of these up, bugger (that's being polite)![]()
Vern, I'm not sure if all hubs are the same, but if you just mean the paper gasket that seals the drive flange to hub, then just use some silicone/gasket maker. I've given up sourcing those gaskets.
I've since taken these photos if it helps:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...brication.html
Nah I meant the seal that goes in behind the needle roller bearing, although mine doesn't have this (bearing) it has a brass bush.
I thought the gasket seemed a bit simple.
The one behind the needle roller bearing will join the swivel and hub compartments. Are you joining the diff oil as well? I like the idea of having diff oil separate, but each to their own.
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