and the failure of a head gasket can take out the head.
I don't think you'd worry about the gearbox or the driveline generally, things tend to happen a little more slowly, noises come more gradually and there'll be shiny stuff in the oil... when you change the oil regularly. A head gasket can just blow, inevitably when you least need it to happen, certainly when it's a stinking hot day, and most likely when you're on the highway... miles from home. Guaranteed NOT to happen at home in the garage next to the cupboard where the spares are kept.![]()
and the failure of a head gasket can take out the head.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
I subscribed to the policy of leaving the head on a 300tdi alone until you needed to take it off. Until that point you took meticulous care of the cooling system but left well enough alone.
Before my last big trip I took it in for a service. Low coolant level alarm had peeped and I added about two cups of coolant about a week before the service and I asked the mechanic to check for a small leak. They did a test right there and then while I was dropping off the car and they came back and told me the head gasket had gone, it might have even happened on the way to the service. 240000km on the clock. So the head came off and the gasket was done.
So I had stuck to my policy and did the head when it was required but jees I was lucky. I was heading bush a week or so later. Could have stuffed a great holiday on the Greenmount Hill on day 1.
This.
Mine blew the other side of the state and had no choice but to flatbed home (VERY expensive over that distance) or get it fixed locally where it blew and pickup the vehicle a few days later. I went the latter, but it was a royal PITA considering it was suppose to be a weekend away with friends. We had to all get home in other vehicles, then I had to go back next weekend and pick it up. There was no LR mechanics around. I had no choice in mechanic.
If it's suspect, or you're thinking it's a good time to do a preemptive strike, do it at your own convenience! Don't wait, because it will not be convenient!
Now you all have me worried. I have 308,000 km on my TDi on the original head gasket. Never overheated it, twice the gauge has gone past the middle, but only slightly.
Is it difficult to do? I have done petrol OHV motors (Grey Holden) and bike ones before.
And what about my clutch? Mine is still original.
Jeff
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Jeff,Keep an eye on your Engine Watchdog TM2/Haydn temperature gauge,it is a more accurate indicator of engine temperature.Maintain the radiator in first class condition and fit a low coolant alarm all help to preserve the head gasket.
You do have these gauges fitted?
If you have replaced the head gasket on a grey motor,you should no problems with the 300tdi.Use a genuine gasket Elring,and essential to torque the head bolts according to Rave/workshop manual.
Good luck.
It's a doddle!!!
As well as the Head Gasket, you'll need an inlet/zorst gasket and will have to do an oil change after (to clear out the coolant that drops into the sump).
The main thing to look out for are:
* Drain the coolant before you start (otherwise it goes everywhere when you lift the head).
* Don't drop the 'caps' from the rods, into the engine!
* Keep the caps & push rods in order, so you can refit back to where they came from.
* When doing the clearances, don't forget the 'Rule of 9'.
M
* Drain the coolant before you start
Camel landy, great list and just to clarify, drain the coolant from the block. Bolt with copper sealing washer about half way down the block on passenger side behind the dip stick tube. This will drop the coolant in the water galleries below deck height so you dont have water everywhere once you pop the top.
And another tip - on a fender, when re-torqueing the head after renewal
Dont forget that the Air Filter Can bracket is attached to the block by two of the head bolts...
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Hi all does anyone have an Idea what the main cause of these head problems are? Now I no expert but have done quite a few heads in my life, inc plenty off alloy head (cars,bikes,trucks,4wd and boats) never had a prob after repair, now I repaired mine went well no probs, did 5000kms blew again, I'd even put ARP Head studs in. now i didnt check hardness of head, as i said never had this problem with alloy heads before, It never overheated until gasket blew, any ideas? I dont like the coolant bypass set up on this engine, anyone hear of a way to elimiate the bypass?
I really liked my disco butoh well I still have my 87 V8 county
disco's gone to heaven
Your 'rule of 9' might be different to mine.
Try this on your latest eco friendly engine and with very few exceptions this an established method should still work.
Model A Ford Garage ~ Model A & B Ford Valve Tappet Adjustment ~ Rule of Nine
.
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