Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: Sals Pinion Bearings - LT95 Bearings

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    18,616
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Sals Pinion Bearings - LT95 Bearings

    Firstly - can the pinion bearing and oil seal on a sals diff be replaced with everything in place except for the driveshaft? Is there anything hard or I need to specifically to watch out for? Other than the bearing and oil seal is there anything else that should be replaced at the same time.

    Basically the same question for the front output bearing and oil seal of the LT95 transfer case - can it be done insitu?

    Also when the bearing etc is removed can you get at the CDL or is it a remove the front housing job.

    I am looking at getting a new front driveshaft for my 101 and I just want to replace the other wear components in the front drive train before hand.

    Thanks

    garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geelong, VIC
    Posts
    4,442
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Seals aren't a problem. A Tek screw into the seal and pull it out with a claw hammer is any easy way to extract them.

    IIRC the LT95 output bearing is a ball type. Pretty sure its circlip retained and comes out forward, but unless you've got some fancy puller that will get into the race somehow I don't like your chances of getting it out. I've only ever done them with the output housing on the bench.

    Sals pinion forward bearing is tapered roller, so should be easy enough to get the cone out, but likely a drama to get the cup out.
    If it was me I'd just do the seal and leave it alone unless its got issues - in which case pull the axles and center and do it properly.
    If just doing the seal there's a few posts on here about marking the nut/pinion so you can get the bearing preload the same. If replacing the bearing you'd ideally want to reset preload which would be easier done with the axles out.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,545
    Total Downloaded
    0
    LT95 front seal is easy, remove drive shaft and flange, pry out old seal and install the new one.

    Salisbury is a bit trickier, I've only done the seal not the bearing. There's quite a number of flange and seal kits, see here That Salisbury Pinion Seal Also you need to get the preload right on the pinion too.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    18,616
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks for the information. I am mainly looking at replacing the bearings with the seals just being a by product of that. The driveshaft gives the front drive system a good shake on the 101 and I want to make sure the front end is in good nick before I start the process of trying to eradicate the 101 Rumble - first step is ensure bearings in good order, second is a DC shaft nwith larger wide angle UJs, third step is lower the drivers side of the engine to reduce angles. An alternative to the third step us to rotate the diff up 17 degrees but that is a major technical job that id not the easiest to do.

    Cheers

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!