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Thread: TD5 Driver Demand Faults

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    TD5 Driver Demand Faults

    G'day All,

    I have had an ongoing driver demand fault issue on my 2002 TD5 for the last couple of weeks which I cannot get to the bottom of. I now have the Engine Management Light come on a few seconds after start up & thats how it stays, I am also unable to take the engine off idle.

    A few weeks back it started getting a slight miss around some left hand corners , then a week or so later after it had had a miss when I next went to idle that is where it would stay & the engine management light would come on, you could usually clear the fault by turning the engine off then on again but now it is a hard fault that will not clear.

    I suspected either a wiring or accelerator pedal potentiometer issue.

    I have just purchased a HawkEye to help with the issue & I had many different codes relating to multiple items so after clearing all the codes I am now left with the following codes.

    -3165 Faults detected with driver demand
    -3141 Driver demand has been faulty
    -3166 Inconsistencies found with driver demand

    I have fitted a new accelerator pedal/potentiometer, nil fix or change.

    After inspecting the engine harness from the ECU as best I could I can find no obvious damage to the looms or plugs.

    A wiring check with a good quality Fluke meter detected no open circuit between the ECU & the potentiometer plugs, the resistance on the 2 earths was a little high which traced back to the earth post below the ECU, so I ran a new heavy wire to the post from the battery & it solved the slightly high resistance problem to the ECU & pedal but did not make any difference to the main problem.

    At the potentiometer plug I seem to have the correct readings as well.(These figures are similar with the engine running or with the engine off and the ECU powered).

    -Pin D, earth good
    -Pin G, earth good
    -Pin B, 5.022v (ECU supply)
    -Pin J, 5.022v (ECU supply)
    -Pin F, 0.020v
    -Pin C, 4.977v
    -Pin K, 4.970v

    When you move the accelerator pedal you see the voltages change as you could expect on pins F, C & K, the supply voltage remains stable & 5.022v.

    The driver demand voltages from HawkEye with the Engine running,

    -Driver demand 1, 0.94v
    -Driver demand 2, 4.12v
    -Driver demand supply 0v

    From what I can determine so far everything seems OK apart from HawkEye telling me the "Driver demand supply is 0V" which is incorrect as I have confirmed with a meter I am getting 5.022v.

    To me this is starting to look like an ECU issue where the ECU is supplying 5v but not sensing it. Sadly I don't have access to spare ECU to try for troubleshooting out here in Dubai.

    Does anyone have any ideas of what else to try or what else it may be before I get another ECU or send mine to the UK for testing & possible repairing.

    If it is my ECU does anyone know who can test & repair the ECU in the UK.

  2. #2
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    Col what was the knock that you had in the engine back in May?

    Cant answer your questions about the throttle pot voltages but I know Pete Bell from Bell Auto Services can probably fix your ECU.
    Presume you found no oil in the red plug?

  3. #3
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    OK mate, I have just updated the old thread about my noise, it has been a while since I have logged in here & forgot all about updating the previous post, but it all turned out good in the end.

    Thanks for the info regarding Bell's I might send him an email regarding, he was also the one who remapped my ECU for the VNT.

  4. #4
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    Col I have the same car and a Hawkeye I just did the same test as you not sure if this will help

    With the engine not running

    -Driver demand 1, 0.94v
    mine .54v to 4.? volts when putting your foot flat to the floor


    -Driver demand 2, 4.12v
    mine 4.? volt to .54 when putting your foot flat to the floor

    -Driver demand supply 0v
    0v through to 10v with my foot flat to the floor

    I presume you Hawkeye is indicating the ECU is setup for a 3 wire not 2 wire TPS

  5. #5
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    Thanks mate, interesting, I will go and check the supply again with my foot on the floor.

  6. #6
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    OK I did the same thing & came up with similar results so to me apart from the faults everything seems to be working OK.

    The other faults it has are related to the tacho & A/C clutch so are unrelated.

    With the engine not running

    -Driver demand 1, 0.94v
    mine .54v to 4.? volts when putting your foot flat to the floor
    DD1 0.98, flat 4.68v

    -Driver demand 2, 4.12v
    mine 4.? volt to .54 when putting your foot flat to the floor
    DD2 4.08v, flat 0.45v

    -Driver demand supply 0v
    0v through to 10v with my foot flat to the floor
    DDS 0.0v, flat 10.0v

  7. #7
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    Col found this on one of the UK sites

    Just thought i'd leave a message regarding the "no acceleration" Fault. had another TD5 Defender in the dealership with the same problem. This time the fault was caused by the wiring loom being chaffed down by the transfer box.

    When you look underneath, follow the main wiring loom as it goes by the transfer box, it had rubbed through on the left hand side between the body and box.


    Might be consistent with the spluttering when turning left?
    I noticed mine was starting to chafe here

  8. #8
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    Thanks mate, I have had a good look at the loom the best I am able to without removing all of the conduit it is housed in but have found no problems so far.

    I actually brought some new 5 core wire so I could rewire it thinking this was going to be the problem, but after checking everything with a meter & HawkEye it all seems to be OK, I would rather not cut into the original loom unless I have a confirmed fault. I thought I was on a winner with the high resistance on the ECU earth but in the end it made no difference. This earth may also have coincided with the miss on LH turns if it was due to a poor body to chassis earth strap or similar.

  9. #9
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    Col
    Can you do a temp rewire just to see if it is a wiring issue?

    Duane

  10. #10
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    Not really as I do not have the correct new pins for the ECU or pot plugs, I was going to cut into the old loom & solder the new 5 core loom into place, so this would be a permanent repair.

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