The Hychill in my D2 is still excellent after a year as it was in my RRC for a couple of years before that.
Regards Philip A
Guess what .... Most of the "greenfreeze" type fridges are hydrocarbon gasses. The gas leak would have to be MASSIVE for it to ignite. Your average car system will have only 300grams in it. You fridge probably a fraction of that .... The OIL ... You know the stuff R134a uses as well also burns .... burns really nicely too
I've been using hychill for years. I agree it will cause issues at A/C places where there recovery equipment is setup for R134a. Then again, there not going to re-use any of the 134a recovered anywhere, so it's really a non-event. The oil will be the issue, if the system being recovered is using the old R12 oil, R134 recovery machines aren't going to like it.
In Victoria HR12 (hychill -30) is available from any bursons store. If they try to bull**** you with the "You need a refrigeration certificate" type crap. tell 'em it's just a glorified BBQ gas, and if you can't buy that you can't buy LPG either (which is true!).
I rekcon hychill is bloody brilliant stuff, especially in our old cars where R12 sucked bad enough, without losing a heap of efficency by swapping to R134a which IS a ****load less efficient.
I researched a heap on HR12 before I started using it. The only news stories on automotive A/C fires world wide I could find all had one thing in common..... That being they all had R134a in them ( it might not burn at normal atmosphereic pressures, but it sure as **** does at high pressure when mixed with oil).
Be warned the small disposable can fitting for hychill is quite expensive, I just have a 4.5kg bottle myself.
Putting Hychill into a freezer truck or huge systems scares the **** out of me.... It's too much highly flamable gas that can leak into a sealed room (a huge refrigerator truck could leak a couple of kg's of gas into the sealed monster sized cool room.... THAT I do find scary. Having said that it's not HR12 that's used in big cool rooms, it's a different hychill gas, it's still likely highly flamable though!
If anyone is trying to get an old land rover A/C system working in ballarat, just let me know, there welcome to try some hychill in it.
seeya,
Shane L.
I have a younger brother I no longer have contact with either. Probably worse than yours as mine has done time
Why do you need to change out the York?
I have one in the 6x6 that I charged up 13yrs ago and its still going.
With that system I am using R413a which is a drop in for R12 also but its a combination Freezer/Fridge primarily with aircon as a second.
I have been thinking of pumping the 413 back into the bottle and using hychill in it too.
I wouldn't as
a) R413a (Isceon49) is an excellent drop in replacement refrigerant that is roughly 7-8% more efficient than R134a in most applications.
b) The downside is that you'll more than likely upset the balance of gasses when recovering it as it's an zeotrope and therefore bugger it's use for the future.
a) I knew it was better than R134a but cant understand why it is not used more in aircon here. Most frigies I talk to know nothing about it.
b) I thought I might have been able to get it all out without upsetting the balance. I will leave it there for a while then. Its OK but I cant get the freezer as cold as I could with R12.
Too much glide with Isceon49 in low temp applications.
R134a is compromised there too, but you'll get away with it in a house fridge/freezer, R12 was much more stable at those low evaporating temps.
R409a is a better choice for old R12 freezer applications, but you can't use it in auto air as the discharge pressures and more importantly temps are excessive at high suction pressures.
It sounds like a few members here have considerable refrigerant experience, can someone give me some advice?
Bear in mind I know very little about refrigeration.
I need to get the aircon on my daughter's Vectra working.
The compressor which is less than two years old dumped all the oil and gas. I got an aircon guy out and he said the seal on the shaft has gone? Is it possible to replace the seal or does the compressor need replacing?
I am thinking as the system is effectively dry this would be an opportunity to change to Hychill. So besides replacing the condenser drier would anything else need changing?
If it is indeed the crank seal that has failed, you need to work out why the seal went?
With the seal gone, the system isn't dry any more, it's contaminated.
Refrigerant leaked=moisture entered.
BTW I wouldn't stuff around replacing a seal on something that small, (and I used to) replace the compressor, but try and work out why the seal has failed first.
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