Thread: Regas with Hychill -30

Originally Posted by superquag

... I can see 'green' gas re-charging as the next DIY fad.

What are the specs of an 'acceptable' vaccum pump? (just in case the ones I have in the shed would work..)

Anyone know of a Hychill/other brands green gas supplier over here in WA ? (purely academic interest.)

Fad I've been using hychill "forever" .... It would have to be 6->10years.

It MUST be a proper refrigeration pump, the idea isn't to suck the air out, it's to boil off any moisture in the A/C. So if you have a good quality vacuum pump it'll pull close to 30" of mercury .... well 29.something from memory. In this sort of vacuum water will boil at very low temperature.... um here you go ... of course given a 10second google search the temparture arent' celcius, but you get the idea.



seeya,
Shane L.

Originally Posted by superquag

... I can see 'green' gas re-charging as the next DIY fad.

What are the specs of an 'acceptable' vaccum pump? (just in case the ones I have in the shed would work..)

Anyone know of a Hychill/other brands green gas supplier over here in WA ? (purely academic interest.)

It must be stated, that while you don't need a licence to handle hydrocarbon refrigerants, you do need a licence to remove the R12 or R134a from the system.

This does apply to those converting their systems over to Hychill minus30. Mine was converted prior to the advent of National regulations by a licenced refrigeration mechanic trained to use hydrocarbon refrigerants.

Western Australia
HyChill Head Office:
Phone: 1300 492 445
email: info@hychill.com.au

TIC Auto Electrics & Air Conditioning
PO Box 10868
KALGOORLIE WA 6433
Phone: 0418 940 077
Fax: (08) 9021 4946

JAS Oceania
10/53 Belmont Ave
Belmont (Perth) WA 6104
Phone: (08) 9478 5511
Fax: (08) 9478 5594


WA Appliance Parts
Unit 3, 135 Russell Street
Morley WA 6062
Phone: 1300 727 874 or (08) 6278 0978
Fax: (08) 9275 4935
Email: parts@waapplianceparts.com.au


Veale Auto Parts
Multiple outlets
Head office:
286 Great Eastern Highway
Redcliffe
WA, 6104
Phone: (08) 9366 3666
Fax: (08) 9366 3660

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

It must be stated, that while you don't need a licence to handle hydrocarbon refrigerants, you do need a licence to remove the R12 or R134a from the system.

This does apply to those converting their systems over to Hychill minus30. Mine was converted prior to the advent of National regulations by a licenced refrigeration mechanic trained to use hydrocarbon refrigerants.

Western Australia
HyChill Head Office:
Phone: 1300 492 445
email: info@hychill.com.au

TIC Auto Electrics & Air Conditioning
PO Box 10868
KALGOORLIE WA 6433
Phone: 0418 940 077
Fax: (08) 9021 4946

JAS Oceania
10/53 Belmont Ave
Belmont (Perth) WA 6104
Phone: (08) 9478 5511
Fax: (08) 9478 5594


WA Appliance Parts
Unit 3, 135 Russell Street
Morley WA 6062
Phone: 1300 727 874 or (08) 6278 0978
Fax: (08) 9275 4935
Email: parts@waapplianceparts.com.au


Veale Auto Parts
Multiple outlets
Head office:
286 Great Eastern Highway
Redcliffe
WA, 6104
Phone: (08) 9366 3666
Fax: (08) 9366 3660

Having said that .... Guess why 99.99999975% of poeple have converted to Hychill................ Yep, the R134a has leaked away....

How many people have yearly "regasses" with R134a that leaks away over the next 12months (answer .... thousands).... Yet this isn't illegal

It's all a lot of bull***** as far as I can tell. Having said that I do have a recovery pump too. How many cars that are wrecked or crushed would actually have the A/C degassed in .... almost none I'd imagine!

I couldn't imagine anyone releasing the gas from a working system to put hychill in, that's just lunacy. The systems with hychill added will have been empty either way

seeya,
Shane L.

My RRc R12 system had the refrigerant removed (and re-used on other R12 systems) had the drier replaced and then charged with Care 30 (which is almost identical to HyChill minus 30.)

But that was because we had the Care 30 and were using it in large commercial R12 units.

Yes Shane, you don't need a licence (with all the fees...) to have a leaking 134a system. - Most -if not all - leak it out, only at differing rates...

Now to check on evilBay for a suitable gauge set for a Classic (only as an example, of course..)

Wonder if there's "Car A/C for Dummies" floating around at my local bookshop.

Originally Posted by superquag

Yes Shane, you don't need a licence (with all the fees...) to have a leaking 134a system. - Most -if not all - leak it out, only at differing rates...

Now to check on evilBay for a suitable gauge set for a Classic (only as an example, of course..)

Wonder if there's "Car A/C for Dummies" floating around at my local bookshop.

R134a manifold and gauge sets are cheap. If you Classic hasn't been upgraded to the quick release R134a fittings (ie: it still uses the shrader valves). this isn't an issue, you can just unscrew the quick release fittings and screw straight onto the schrader fittings in the car.

The expensive bit will be finding a vacuum pump. You can't do much until you have the vacuum pump. You can buy cheap scales that'll weigh upto 10kg with 1gram increments for next to nothing on ebay too (they look like the digital scales at a fruit store). So you can weigh the charge weight in from a 4.5kg bottle. If you buy the disposable cans, a full can would do close to most vehicles i imagine without overfilling.

Wow ... how cheap is this setup... Shame the pump will be 110volts so no goo

r134a gauges | eBay

actually look here for the pump and gauges (found the link to there website on an ebay auction).

http://www.airefco.com.au/


seeya,
Shane L.

I have a post in Projects and Tutorials ( Aircon a bit different) It is a fairly large unit I am fitting to my Defender which I will soon need to gas up Question is if I use Hychill can I vac out the system then add small amounts off gas till I get frosting along the suction line or is there a better way ?

Thanks Noel

Personally if I was going to convert to a propane based refrigerant I would be charging by superheat, the reality is the relationship of superheat to condensing temps is what you need to know if you are going to get the most out of your "charge". If you can measure the superheat you will be a lot better off, "Gauge temp verses actual temp", look for about 4 to 6 K or a rise of 4 to 6 degrees across the evaporator, if you measure on the suction line at some point you will be pretty close, try to avoid frosting back to the compressor but a good cold sweat is ok.


Of course this needs to be checked once you have a reasonable outlet air temp not when first run if the cabin is hot.


Out of curiosity I have a 1990 Camry that sat for 9 years (Barn Find ha ha) upon sorting a few things and getting it running guess what, still has roughly 85% of it's R12 charge, I will be recharging soon as on a hot day above 30Deg it does struggle a bit, so might look into propane.