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Thread: Regas with Hychill -30

  1. #51
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    should have added before I posted.

    I always go off of 3 temp gauges as well as the pressures when I do an "Unknown" fill

    one at the vents

    one in the evaporator

    one on the condensor in the fins just before the fans (unless its one of those multi flow condensors then I just grab the "tank" thats on the "cold" side as far away from the outlet as I can get.

    I put in about half the gas I think the system will need (thats an experience thing, a landy system takes between 700 and 1250 grams so I put in 350, if I have the placard I put in about 3/4 as liquid to the HP side If I can get it in then do a low pressure side fill) Usually this is just about enough to get it all working just then I trickle it in in 50 gram lots till the evaporator starts to show about 10 degrees then I seal up all the doors and windows put it on recyc and let it cool the cars interior down.

    I then fill until the vents begin to show 10 degrees and have a look at whats what.

    If the evaporator starts to show below 0 and the compressor cuts out I open up just enough window to keep it above the compressor cut out point and keep on filling till I get about 5 degrees at the vent.

    the temp gauge in the condensor is just to keep tabs on it and make sure that nothing squirrely is happening
    Dave

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  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    nahh if all your hardware is original spec and you have the original charge weight stickered onto the system then you just need a look up..

    heres the marketing blurb for your chosen gas, but helpfully they have all the real techy data in tact at the end. (including how to do the charge by weight and by volume....

    the very short version, there are some marketing blurb errors in their advertising "how goods this ****" phase...

    its a lighter gas (lower density) its going to flow around the system at a fantastic rate so,

    If your compressor isnt 100% (leaking valves/ports) or your TX valve is sticking open preventing pressure build up in the condesnor and receiver
    you're going to notice the hychil wont cool the car as well (Same goes for low engine speeds)

    you'll also notice the hycill will be less effective more quickly if you have a minor leak (made up exaggerated numbers for example only here) of you loose 50% of the hychil you might lose up to 70% of the cooling capacity whereas the R134 will still be running around the 75% mark...

    oh just as by the by...

    Hit and miss is a type of governor...

    Tradesmen use fact, experience and intuition.
    I've found hychill seems leak less than the R134a.... I don't think anyone claims it's a miracle cure for anything. There's no way I'd touch a working modern R134a system...

    I'm talking old R12 systems, they generally suck big time with R134a in them. A larger condenser would probably help for starters.... Or you could just put any hychill type refrigerant in there.

    If I loose say 50% charge from my old cars over 2years.... I'd be tickled pink. I'll stick another $7.00 of hychill in and keep motoring. I've filled countless LPG gas bottles and with each bottle I fill I'm sure I release more LPG into the atmosphere than my car would leak over the years for the next century It's not toxic like R134a remember.

    It's simply a readily available, safe(ish) refrigerant that can be used by anyone. It's no more dangerous than your bbq gas.

    Pretty sure Blknight has nailed it, for filling without charge weight. Remember devide his amount by 1/3rd for hychill. Check the downloads from the hychill website. They also have guides for filling without a known charge weight

    I'm pleased we have an A/C guy on here, I'm madly trying to understand everything you saying. I'm a firmly believe you need to understand how something works in order to fix it.

    seeya,
    Shane L.

  3. #53
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    What is the story with sight-glasses and R600/R290?

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    What is the story with sight-glasses and R600/R290?
    Bottom line is that you can easily overcharge any system if charging by the sight glass, and that includes large commercial refrig installations.

    You just need to pay attention to the discharge pressure, (that it's high enough, if conditions are cool and the discharge pressure is too low it needs to be artificially raised) suction pressure and superheat and/or the sweat back on the suction line.

  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post

    I'm pleased we have an A/C guy on here, I'm madly trying to understand everything you saying. I'm a firmly believe you need to understand how something works in order to fix it.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Well for starters you don't need a thermometer in the condenser and evaporator as Dave advocates if you have gauges connected to the system.

    There's this funny but basic thing that any refrig/a-c mechanic uses on each job called a pressure/temperature relationship.

    Download a PT chart and print it out for the refrigerant you are using.
    The pressure drops involved on a car a/c will be minimal, so your gauges (if calibrated) are a much more accurate way of ascertaining condensing and evaporator temps.

    A thermometer at the TXV feeler bulb would be handy (but mostly impractical on car a/c's) to check the superheat, and one in an outlet is sufficient to check air off temps.

    There are at least four real fridgies posting in this thread.

  6. #56
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    O.K. slightly on topic, I have a part used 9kg bottle of Care 30, a set of gauges, no decanter and a compressed air/venturi vac pump.

    My '85 could do with a re-gas, but I'm too timid. Anyone in Sydney a fridgy who'd like to do it?

    Probably still need to recondition/replace the York compressor but that may be able to wait.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  7. #57
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    I think we're everywhere but Sydney Diana!

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  8. #58
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    besides you're probably in the middle of a latte somewhere--
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  9. #59
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    Flat white at Bar Coluzzi

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    O.K. slightly on topic, I have a part used 9kg bottle of Care 30, a set of gauges, no decanter and a compressed air/venturi vac pump.

    My '85 could do with a re-gas, but I'm too timid. Anyone in Sydney a fridgy who'd like to do it?

    Probably still need to recondition/replace the York compressor but that may be able to wait.
    It's not difficult ... Give it a shot, after all what have you got to loose? I used to have a really good website in the US bookmarked (that I now can't find). They tried one of those venturi type vacuum pumps. They do draw a vacuum, but nowhere near enough to boil the moisture off ( they tried one on there huge industrial compressor).

    So you still really need a decent refrigeration 'vac pump first. The gas is free, so why don't you change the recievier driver, 'vac it down (with a proper pump) for a couple of hours, then given you don't have scales, just trickle the gas via the suction side until your pressures are about right (download the instructions from the hychill website). You need to add the refrigerant slowly 'cos your hydrocarbon refrigerants charge in liquid form, so you dont want to give the compressor a shot of liquid refrigerent or you'll destroy it! The hydrocarbon base refrigerants should have a pickup from the bottom of the bottle so that get "liquid" not gaseous refrigerant out (just like the bottle big bottle that you fill BBQ bottles from at your local servo... they have a tube the runs down to the bottom of the bottle to get the liquid, rather than the gas boiling off the top).

    I know quite a few people that use LPG for refrigerant in old cars. They just turn the bottle upside down. I wouldn't do this myself, not only do you risk a lot of contaminants/moisture... the characteristics of the straight LPG would be wrong for refrigeration purposes.

    Worst case scenario is it'll all just leak back out within a few weeks, though if the system held a vacuum, you could be ok.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    PS: I know I can post instructions here 'cos the fridgies on this thread will jump and down and correct me if I'm wrong :P

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