LT230 Input Gear Wear

**maggsie** · 23rd July 2005, 08:14 PM

Already hit a snag, the two screws locating the bearing housing are not budging. I've tried hitting them with the screwdriver and hammer, impact screwdriver (although there isn't much room to give it a decent whack) and have started verbal abuse. Have stopped and reached for a glass of red. Might try heating the screws with my heat gun (I won't hold my breath). They are very tight!
Vlad, re. the price of the input gear, Ashcroft transmissions (UK) are selling them for 45pound @ $110.00 plus postage.

**shaunp** · 24th July 2005, 06:53 AM

Is your transfer case and LT230 T ? early boxes don't have taper bearings and don't have the same problems. Timkin taper bearings by their nature pump oil, in the case of the 230t away from the shaft. the early boxes with out taper bearing still get some oil to the shaft and don't wear as much. Use a map torch carefully. Later boxes don't have the screws.

**maggsie** · 24th July 2005, 11:04 AM

Shaun,
my T/case is a 'suffix B' in an 85 County with 232,000 on the speedo. I have the original owners service manual showing the G/box was overhauled at 148,000 ( I wonder what qualifies as an overhaul ), no mention of the T/case though.
I still cannot budge the two screws holding the bearing housing.
What about a propane torch to heat up the screws?
Maggsie

**shaunp** · 24th July 2005, 03:36 PM

It will be a roller box I reckon and probably ok. Put the transfer box in nuetral and the main box in gear and see how much the gear wiggles on the main shaft, this will be a guide to wear if you can't get it out. I'd use a MAP gas torch, these are great nearly as hot as oxy but hand held with chuck away bottle self lighting, around $80 with a bottle, new bottles about $20, hot enough to braze and silver solder with, and supa for tight bolts, whats more you can take in your tool box on a trip.

**cewilson** · 24th July 2005, 07:02 PM

Unless I am wrong, don't you have to tap out the intermediate gear shaft before you can look at removing the input gears.

Once you have done that, you can remove the PTO cover (2 plates) and go from there?

But with mine I did it on the bench which is a lot easier - and that was the LT230t transfer case!

**timberwolf_302** · 25th July 2005, 08:59 PM

Just fill the t/case with grease.

That'll take the slap out of it.

**sclarke** · 26th July 2005, 10:14 AM

Originally posted by timberwolf_302
Just fill the t/case with grease.

That'll take the slap out of it.

I'm hoping that was a ****take????

**4bee** · 26th July 2005, 01:33 PM

Why not also consider fitting a Steve Parker Oil Return plate?

I fitted mine to stop the whine & it works very well. It gets the oil to where it should be on the shaft & gears.

http://www.steve-parker.co.uk/designed.htm

**101RRS** · 26th July 2005, 04:13 PM

Originally posted by 4bee
I fitted mine to stop the whine & it works very well. It gets the oil to where it should be on the shaft & gears.

I heard these then shield the nearby bearing/s from getting oil - then the bearings slowly fail instead.

Gazzz

**4bee** · 26th July 2005, 06:48 PM

I take your point, but I doubt that could happen as there is a lot of activity going on in there, & oil would be thrown under the U tube extension tube.

It works on the fact that oil IS thrown around, & gathers in the "trough" & then some can run forward to the gear & shaft while some goes under the trough.

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