Thread: Running-in a Rebuilt V8

3.5 L V8s used a different oil pump drive, not sure when they changed, but an old trick with them was to insert a tool shaped like a flat bladed screwdriver where the distributor mounts. The oil pump was driven off the bottom of the distributor shaft. Insert the tool until it engaged with the oil pump and then spin it around with an electric drill. Usually left at least one rocker cover off as well to be able to see if the oil was where it should be.

Originally Posted by Old Farang

3.5 L V8s used a different oil pump drive, not sure when they changed, but an old trick with them was to insert a tool shaped like a flat bladed screwdriver where the distributor mounts. The oil pump was driven off the bottom of the distributor shaft. Insert the tool until it engaged with the oil pump and then spin it around with an electric drill. Usually left at least one rocker cover off as well to be able to see if the oil was where it should be.

Yes that is good practice, I always did that on the relevant engines with a power drill driven tool to mimic the drive end of the distributor. The V8 oil pump went to a crankshaft driven eccentric rotor pump with the change to serpentine belts in 1994 approx. On those you can pump oil into the switch port to fill the galleries and prime the pump. Also it helps to fill the oil filter to the brim before installing it.

It gets confusing about run in procedures, for some, because diesels and petrols are run in differently...

Petrol engines, I would be nice to, change oil after 500 k's, but 600 is ok, mostly do so in first 1,000 k...

And if you want to know how the run in is going, then get an oil sample and pay for it to be tested, worth the money if you want to know whats going on inside(can do that every oil change if you want)....

Worked engines for the track, run different piston clearances and they dont leave the white metal on the bearings, thus you can go hard straight away...

Diesels are a different animal, go hard when you run them in, if new cam then 1hr at about 1200 rpm... Then load them up, if the engine has a particular problem at revs(like the Cummins red heads or the black motors, then keep below 1900), but the basic principal with diesels is to work them hard...

I have rebuilt a Cummins 855, 400hp New Big Cam 4 and run that in by loading it to the gills for the first 20,000 k's... It was a rocket after that... But I also balanced and blue printed it, and took 6 weeks to build to that standard, it is still the biggest engine I have balanced and blueprinted, but it paid off in ways I never expected...

Other than that, just enjoy what you built and keep the nerves in check for the next month or so...

I used this


and a 2 micron oil filter until the first oil change,,

Thank you all for your (very varied!) advice!

Originally Posted by PLR

I wouldn`t put coolant in untill the first oil at 600.

Why do you say this PLR?

Originally Posted by PLR

Run it on petrol , lpg is too clean it`s one of the times the wear caused by using petrol is useful.

Would you be able to explain this further please? I have been told with this motor and previous motors to run them in on petrol, but the more reading i do the more i learn of people running in engines on LPG without adverse affects. Many mention that although LPG is a clean burning fuel, it is also dry and more 'abrasive' than petrol (explains why my needle and seats wear sooner).

Many thanks,

Edward

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

I used this


and a 2 micron oil filter until the first oil change,,

Thats because it is a 30 grade oil... Any new engine you should run the lightest oil possible, thicker oil is fine on an old worn out engine but a light oil is the ideal oil, it allows the oil to pass through the bearings with causing a restriction between the surfaces...

If you engine uses 30 grade upto 40 degree temps, then use that, but if the engine recommends 40 grade to 40 degrees then stick to that.... Always use the lowest grade possible...

Finer filters are not necassarily better while running in, they will restrict oil flow quicker than an 8 micron filter, as they block up faster from particles, this can cause a loss of longevity to your engine by less oil causing more wear...

Few engines had filters in the old days and they still had good engine lives... I have an engine that was built in the 1920's, a gause filter, never rebuilt and still runs like new... Takes a 50 grade oil but I use 40 grade with it, could you imagine how long it would last if it had a filter to remove the particles out of the oil, considering its 90 years old now...

Trout is one that should know the old CBH elevator engines and I am sure there are others that do too...

Originally Posted by I Love My Landy!

Thank you all for your (very varied!) advice!



Why do you say this PLR?



Would you be able to explain this further please? I have been told with this motor and previous motors to run them in on petrol, but the more reading i do the more i learn of people running in engines on LPG without adverse affects. Many mention that although LPG is a clean burning fuel, it is also dry and more 'abrasive' than petrol (explains why my needle and seats wear sooner).

Many thanks,

Edward

Water has a lower threshold , water is a better conductor , spread of heat ( may be ) , water is cheap etc .

If on the initial it has a leak that needs to be filled for the sake of the cam the mess is minimal and if coolant it will be shut down which does not favour the cam .

Mostly something that works for me and when drain i have a look .



Carbon is an abrasive that allows petrol to aid with the wear in a reason oil stays cleaner longer using LPG .

Oil is the lubricant that matters with either fuel , i think there would be more come through the aircleaner than got past the lpg filter , the needle can sit in the air flow all the time depending on the system type ( ours does the carb pistons are always raised when running ) . I don`t agree with the theory needle lpg wear , i think needle wear will happen .

Rover of the era use pretty much 2 types of top ring Chrome as you have and ordinary cast-iron , there are also coated cast-iron rings the type is not called ordinary .

There are 2 different thicknesses for the top ring of the era .

The thicker top ring will always be cast-iron the thinner top ring can be iron but will normally be chrome .

LPG engines have no problem being run in on LPG as the only fuel when using Cast-iron rings .

Cast-iron rings have a lesser capacity to resist abrasives than Chrome rings and the reason for Chrome .

i`d suggest if a figure is needed it will take between 1500km and 2500km running on petrol to have the chrome top ring seal to near its best .

As earlier your economy etc will be the true indicator .

I hoped the 2 micron caught particles!!
thats why I put it on,,
as to filling up,,
in 600 kays?

The breakin oil was for the new cam/tappets,,