The main advantage of the load leveler, specially on the range rover, was that it allowed soft springs for best comfort and articulation. Lot of body roll though.
Defenders seem to go well with out them.
Cheers guys, I finally got it off. i gave up on the large screw in bush and ended up undoing the shaft that bolts into the ball joint (like Philip described).
Took it for a drive, the minor vibration is still there, however the ride is a hell of a lot smoother. I'm thinking that the leveler may have been sezied. If I understand it correctly the leveler isn't supposed to stiffen up the ride just return it to normal height under load. Mine was so stiff that I could bearly bounce the rear end if I jumped on the rear tow hitch.
Anyhow I'm thinking....Polyair bags for when I tow the boat.
Cheers
The main advantage of the load leveler, specially on the range rover, was that it allowed soft springs for best comfort and articulation. Lot of body roll though.
Defenders seem to go well with out them.
84' 120" ute - 3.9 isuzu.
When Land Rover supplied Land Rover 110s etc to Africa without load levellers they put in much heavier springs to compensate. You can achieve that with airbags I guess, but I think your ride will be much worse with a load in or on than it would be with a load leveller in good nick. AND your articulation will be worseif you pump up the bags.
They are a combination, spring, shock absorber and progressive bumpstop.
There is a function desciption somewhhere in the ZF website as they own Boge/Sachs.
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...3/ai_108098131, talks about the shock version but function is =.
Regards Philip A
I think the load leveller in mine has stopped working, although not seized. Some years ago I replaced the sagged standard springs with the ones fitted to 110s without the load leveller. The ride is much harsher, and one of these days I will get the leveller replaced/overhauled and fit the levelled springs simply for the better ride. Note however that the maximum gross weight is lower with the leveller (and the lighter springs).
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
I pulled an old rangie one apart a few years ago. The rubber bladders inside were perished, which was the main reason that one didn't work.
being a noob to Range Rovers can someone tell me the pros and cons of removing the load leveller?
I am building the vehicle for some weekend fun and some light comp work and was going to remove it alltogether but I do wanna drive the Rangie a couple of hundred k's on the road to get to some of the better tracks to play on.
The load leveller allows the use of softer springs than would otherwise be needed. There is no problem in removing it provided you do one of the following:-Originally Posted by Merv
1. Fit heavier rear springs,
or
2. Don't carry heavy loads
or
3. Fit airbag helper springs at the rear.
The load leveller does nothing when the vehicle is unloaded, and only does anything when the rear springs sag due to loading.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
The load leveling shokie had been removed from my 85 Rangie before I bought it. I would like to replace it as when the rear is loaded it sits very low.
I have one on a 2 door, not drivable and half stripped out, that may be usable.
Is there a way to test the operation of the unit before fitting? Or should I just fit it in and see if it makes any difference?
Also where can these be purchaced within Oz? Does anyone do them aftermarket?
AFAIK from the manual you load about 500Kg of bricks or similar into the back and you measure the distance of the guard from the ground. you then drive it for a couple of ks and measure again. If its the same then the leveller is stuffed. If it has pumped up an inch or so it's OK. To me another sign is if the boot is full of oil then she is stuffed.
There used to be people who would rebuild them for $300 via Graeme Cooper ofr other specialists.
I bought a rebuilt one and it went fine for several years.
I felt energetic so here is what the manual says.
LEVELLING U N I T
Functional check
A Boge Hydromat levelling unit is located in the
centre of the red. .-.le.
When the vehicle is unladen the levelling unit has
little effect. The unit is self-energising and hence
the vehicle has to be driven before the unit
becomes effective, the time taken for this to
happen being dependent upon the vehicle load,
the speed at which it is driven and the roughness
of the terrain being crossed.
If the vehicle is overloaded the unit will fail to level
fully and more frequent bump stop contact will be
noticed.
Should the vehicle be left for a lengthy period, e.g.
overnight, in a laden condition, it may settle. This is
due to normal internal fluid movement in the unit
and is not detrimental to the unit performance.
4 .
5 .
6 .
With the rear seat upright, load 450 kg (992
lb) into the rear of the vehicle, distributing the
load evenly over the floor area. Check the
bump stop clearance, with the driving seat
occupied.
Drive the vehicle for approximately 5 km (3
miles) over undulating roads or graded tracks. ‘. ..
Bring the vehicle to rest by light brake .
application so as not to disturb the vehicle
loading. With the driving seat occupied, check
the bump stop clearance again.
If the change in clearance is less than 20mm
(0.787 in) the levelling unit-must be replaced.
Before carrying out the checks below, verify that
the vehicle is being operated within the specified
maximum loading capabilities. If the levelling unit is
then believed to be at fault, the procedure below
should be followed.
1. Check the levelling unit for excessive oil
leakage and if present the unit must be
changed. Slight oil seepage is permissible.
2 REVISED:
Regards Philip A
Thanks for the response!
As I thought, there is no way of checking the unit for effectivness, other than exessive oil loss, without fitment to a drivable vehicle.
I will do as you say when I get it in. At the moment though I have to deal with my gearbox woes.![]()
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