Thread: Clunking at takeoff.

G'day WilliamB

I would say that the clunking is the Drive End member, that is the plates that the axles go through at the end (held on by the six bolts) they get wear in the splines and will give that noise, if they are Very badly worn you get no drive, and it is the main reason for broken axles, I bought a SWB 2a years ago that would not drive, just made a horrible grinding noise, trailered it home fitted new drive members, drove well, washed it, detailed it, sold it for a lot more that I paid for it. that's where I would check first, pop the axle cap jack it up and look for playin the splines while moving the wheel gently

Bung-Tiddley
Uncle Ho

ok. I have the Diff lock axle ends.
Looking in the manual it mentions incorrect/worn crown and pinion gears, excessive backlash (I have been looking for a preload spanner - to no avail yet).
I will check the sound feels very "central" up front, and goes through to the gear box. It all feels worn which of course it will be given the age of the vehicle.

I have a spare dif from the series 3 which is one good thing - but I must admit I am rnning out of time and money! the main reason I keep posting.
A little worried about what I will find when I look.

G'day WilliamB

Have you got any vertical movement in the handbrake drum, if so the rear output nut could be loose, a sign of this is an oil leak from there, that nut needs to be tightened to 80 Ft/Lbs torque, even with maxi type rear axles they still have to have drive ends, with splines, so there could be play, your other diff is a salisbury isn't it, if so the diff length is different, and you would need to get a different rear tailshaft, the Salisbury has a longer nose.

Hi Will
The Ser3 LWB(sailsbury diff) wont just swap with the 2A SWB(rover diff) without a fair bit of messing around.Have a look at each,shocky mounts are different and the tailshaft will need shortening.The Ser3 diff is much stronge than the rover type.
Check the handbrake for movement,take the middle seat and transmission cover out to see whats happening when it clunks.
Im whith Uncle Ho,the driven members on the ends of the axles(centre of the wheels with 6 bolts securing it) need to be checked,if they are worn you may be able to pinch the Ser3 items but think they will have 24splines(fine) compared to 12(coarse) on the 2A.
GOODLUCK!!!!!!
Andrew

UNCLE HO GREAT MINDS THINK ALIKE
Andrew

G'day LandyAndy
Sounds like we have both been there done that BTW 10 spline on Series and early RR, 24 on late 3's onwards


almost midday here so I have to go and do a bit of yard work

Thanks - yes I believe 3 (ex mil) has an env type front diff? and the 2a Rover?
is that right?

Well - I guess this is the deal - I had budgeted 1500 for a highSpeed Transfer case..though that was REALLY stretching it.

I have about two weeks to do all this prior to moving (driving) to sydney.
I really am unsure as to what to do now.
I think may have to unload both vehicles...
Sorry to be a pain. I have no workshop - have had to carry out "repairs" on the street and have 2 "semi" working vehicles.

If anyone can offer ANY practical help with any of this (I really appreciate the online help) I would very much appreciate it.

How about putting them on a truck????
Andrew