Do you have brake squeal?
Has anyone with a series II seen the ABS/Traction Control/Hill Decent Lights on Alltogether ? If so do you know what the fix was? The problem, also to make things interesting is intermittant.
Another one of those undocumented LandRover electrical features I am sure.
Any insight into the cause appreciated, thanks in advance.
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						Do you have brake squeal?
A search on this site and on the net will show you that this is common.Originally Posted by pilbara
Faulty wheel sensors seem to be the most common cause, or worn brake pads, or non genuine brake pads, etc, etc, etc.
Mine came on at Brisbane Airport just before I picked up some friends. I had just bounced over a speed bump a bit too fastand the dash lit up. I stopped, turned the ignition off and then started up and all is well.
Yep mine are on now when car is running, the first time it happened i got it cleared at Bairnsdale while up there this xmas and while going down a steep hill they came on again, i figured it was the same problem so i decided to put up with it until i got back.
I was near Bredbo exploring and stopped for a break and get a stick out from under the car when Kerry the other half spotted the left rear ABS sensor had come apart, connected it did the ctrl/alt/del and bingo no lights.
Then a couple of days after that going down to Bendethra i got a break squeal and they came back onthis time no senors were disconnected and i tried the ctrl/alt/del a few times but they are still on, so back to the fixit guy to clear the fault and new brake pads and rotors.
Try the ctrl/alt/del
sit in car drivers door closed, start it,
then stop it, pull key out, wait a minute
open drivers door, put key back in,
close drivers door then restart car.
If this doesn't work it will be an ABS sensor, get the new hard wired ones with no connector, this is a upgrade to prevent corrosion and bad connections with the connectors, apparently this is a major cause of code faults with ABS/HD/TC faults.
PS pull the connectors apart on the ABS sensors and clean them, then do the ctrl/alt/del
Baz.
Last edited by Redback; 15th January 2007 at 11:25 AM.
Cheers Baz.
2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
2007 BMW R1200GS
1979 BMW R80/7
1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow
Hi Baz
I will write that down and keep it in the car,sounds handy.
Is it an easy way of clearing all fault codes ???? or do some still need testbook??
Andrew
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There are multiple posible reasons for those lights.
Baz has covered the most likely - but do a search on this forum.. you will find lots of other posts on this subject.
3 other posible reasons are:
- Faulty ABS Modulator ( You don't want that)
- Loose ABS Modulator - I had intermittant lights - found one of the mounting nuts on the modulator had shaken loose... quick spanner job - no more lights
-Even dirty Brake fluid - can upset the modulator. Since I started changing mine every 20,000 instead of every 40,000 like LR say.... I have seen this issue a lot less. (Especially if you regularly use T/C - the fluid seems to get dirty quicker)
Only way to be sure is put it on testbook and read the codes. But I am sure if you do a search you will find heaps more on this issue.
Cheers
Mark
Mark
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Andy alot of the time the ctrl/alt thing will work but as Bytmark says it's best to get them checked and cleared properly in case there is a faulty sensor or inderlying fault in the system.
Remember if replacing the ABS sensors, get the new updated ones that don't have the connector under the guard.
They are around $270ea.
Baz.
Cheers Baz.
2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
2007 BMW R1200GS
1979 BMW R80/7
1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow
mine is the shuttle valve everytime I read the codes,only once was it a wheel sensor a loose plug was the cause of this,you can now by the shuttle valve kit they sell them over in england will be ringing the local importers to see if they can get them.
also on an other web site someone has modified the faulty ones with about a 90% success rate,under the shuttle valve there are 4 holes that are sealed up he drill's them slightly bigger then reseals them so trying to find out more info on this as well before pulling mine to bit's and replacing the shuttle valve and giving it a good clean out
disco seriesII mods so far:-bullbar,hyd winch,
detriot locker,lsd front,C.D.L kit,chipped and bigger intercooler,2" lift,rock sliders, lsd in transfer case, modified auto trans.
In the event of nuclear war,Disregard this message
Previous topic and the outcome here: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=30112
No problems since.
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