Thread: Cones or Clamps?

Clamps are the way to go.

Cones are noisy and can give you some scary moments if they dislocate suddenly on a side slope.


(I have cones at the moment but plan to clamp the springs down)

Walker what are you planning for clamps? I was looking at Expedition-Exchange's site today as they do a system. Was thinking I could probably get something done the same for the Defender.

Is that noisy compared to the rest of the noise from the mudders clawing away or the rocks bouncing and thuddings underneith ,Oh and the TDI rmp's that there normally is? If I clamp won't I loose the 100mm drop I just gained?

Originally Posted by Diff

I did a little test on the weekend and took the sway bars of the D1 and headed out It didn't feel too bad to drive but tail end charlie said it looked like a saggy ass going aroung the corners.

Anyway great flex about 100mm more than the spring length. After having the rears fall out 3 times enough was enough so play was stopped.

.

I read an article in one of the Pommie Land Rover mags wherein one of their "old -style" tech gurus took out his anti sway bars and "swore " he got what felt like 100mm more travel ......one of the other guys on the mag did some simple measurements one one of those crawl-up ramps [LHS of car on ramp, other side wheels off] and the real difference was something like 3/4"[20mm approx].......

the point was that it only FEELS like you've got more- but it's just leaning over more at speed].......but you keep getting what you had happen, happening!.......

Anti-sway bars really only offer initial resistance to lean/sway/wheel movement initially - they DON'T actually prevent much subsequent/ultimate movement of the wheel travel (up and down)......

Maybe have a re-think on how to get more travel........prolly need to go for a un-cheap kit!

Oh, and BTW.....you'll prolly also find it illegal [both for insurance AND roadworthy-ness] to disconnect your anti-sway bars if they were fitted originally.

This is always a contentious issue....
I have run a home made dislocating system in my old Defender for 2.5 years & it worked well .... restricting it to an extra 60mm drop kept it more stable..... If you let it drop as far as 100mm (& it will do, if you modify it right, new trailing arms & bushes etc) it does become unstable... Lengthen the bump stops by 2" makes it work like it should, giving a great combo of up & down travel.
I had to make offset trailing arms & laminate them to get mine working right, but the new type angle bushes that are out now will most likely fix this problem.... although if you play hard laminated arms are a great idea..
Another thing to remember is the ball joint for the a-frame on top of the diff. Make sure it is in good nick or even better get a new Heavy-duty one that is adjustable....

This system can be noisy, but if you do your homework properly it should rarely dislocate suddenly.

I kept my sway bars connected & made quick release connections, allowing me to have full articulation when I wanted & better road handling when I needed it

I have since sold the ol' girl but I can drag up some pics no doubt if you would like...

I have just recently brought a D1 & am going to set up a dislocating system in it (wish I would have pulled it out of the defender now )
Time is scarce for me these days, so I was thinking of just buying the Long Travel suspension kit & long travel shocks from (Les Richmond automotive)


Anyway... that is my 2 cents worth (fitting flame suit now, as the anti dislocating system supporters get passionate about this)

Originally Posted by byron

Anti-sway bars really only offer initial resistance to lean/sway/wheel movement initially - they DON'T actually prevent much subsequent/ultimate movement of the wheel travel (up and down)......


Oh, and BTW.....you'll prolly also find it illegal [both for insurance AND roadworthy-ness] to disconnect your anti-sway bars if they were fitted originally.

having quick disconnects isn't illegal (in Qld anyway) as long as they do not alter or change the performance when they are connected......
& you have to remember to reconnect them

Our insurance company (Racq) had no issues as long is it retained on road.... A couple of old seat belt straps for limiting straps & all was good....

Gidget, thanks what you had sounds like the set up I need / or want. Yes I did know not having the sway bars connected would be an issue on road but My vehicle was still the most road worthy in the forest on the weekend I am sure.

Gidget, If you can find som photos or a bit of direction I would be most interested. Id it hadn't been for the spring dropping out I would have made it up the track. Only the two zuks made it up but they were very impressed with the Disco wheel travel.

I have a design for swayber quick disconnects for a D1 if anyone wants it - off the US Discoweb site. I haven't made them yet.