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i have used permatex black.. good for upto 270deg C and apparently synthetic safe..
one problem... it looks like it has graphite or the like in it... so im wondering if its conductive... anyone know? or have i just written off a $120 loom :confused:
Thanks
Steve
from memory the brand was bostik and it took awhile to find the right stuff I will take the cover off later and check to see if it has held together after a year I had checked the plug coming out of the rocker cover and it was dry no sign of oil on the pins
thanks steveo
i have now sealed the loom.. just waiting for the huge amount of silicon i have used to cure... its actually a gasket material.. and im unsure if its conductive... need to check that later.. but it does seem very rubbery.. didnt mention it on the MDS
maybe i'll drop permatex an email.. but its heat and 'maximum oil' resistance... there was an email posted by dougld as follows
Hi All
I have done a little more research into the harness issues and found the following.
1.Thank you for your inquiry about Permatex products.
You will not have a concern when using Synthetic motor oils in place of standard mineral based oils in regards to Permatex Gasket Silicones. Test conducted by Permatex where Silicone samples have been emersed in oil which is far beyond the conditions found in a motor have shown some minor reduction in the products rigidity, flexibility and elongation. However the products properties were still well above the requirements needed in even the harshest service environment. This cannot be said about all silicones on the market.
For your particular job I would use Ultra Black as it has the greatest flexibility and oil resistance.
Ultra Grey is best for High torque applications (transmissions)
Ultra Copper is for High Temp. (exhaust manifolds)
Ultra Blue which was the original is now regarded as a general purpose gasket silicone, Pretty good for any job as long as it is inside the temperature range.
I have attached some TDS files on each product for your information.
If you would like more information or product catalogues please feel free to contact me with your postal address.
Best Regards,
Ross Cockburn
NSW Sales Representative - Automotive Parts
Timken Australia
( Tel: 02 9336 1422
( Mob: 0438 222169
7 Fax: 02 9336 1450
* E-mail ross.cockburn@timken.com
hopefully it will not be conductive.. but i'll find out soon enough!
With regard to the flushing i have used an alternate method.. i have used a flexible oil funnel spout cut back so that it is a nice fit over the blue rubber seal on the main harness plug... i have then filled this spout up with meths (im assuming you guys are using the clear not the purple stuff im used to seeing?) and this then gives it a small amount of 'Head' i have also taken the battery tray out and put the plug down as low as i can get it.. it seems to be flushing very slowly tho.. i dont think the 5 degrees last night helped the oil move too well either!
i'll post some pictures later... and i'll try and get some pics together for an informal 'how to' for all of the dummies like me..
Thanks
Steve
had the tappet cover off today thought I would fix a small leak at the rear,took some pictures the first shows the outside plug which is still dry and the second shows the sealant on top of the internal plug
http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/3...tuff008jk5.jpg
http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/5...tuff004pb0.jpg
the next picture is the top of the injector with the plug off there is a bit of oil inside only two injectors were dry I think the seal that is inside the plug and seals around the top of the injector may not be doing its job
http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/7...tuff006yt2.jpg
the last picture shows the bead of loctite 515 i have put around the top of the injector plug this will hopefully seal this up as well,time will tell.
http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/7...tuff009qe9.jpg
I cleaned the inside of the plug out with brakleen before refitting
Steve
A dummies how too would be greatly appreciated! I am thinking that I migth need to tackle this problem soon...
Cheers
Angus
Which one is the main harness ?? and the injector harness ?? if you get oil in the injection harness (like me) do you need to replace them both ??and then the gasket ?Quote:
Originally Posted by 5teve
Regards Adrian
Main harness is the one you dont want to replace! costs money and time.. its the one that runs to the ECU...Quote:
Which one is the main harness ?? and the injector harness ?? if you get oil in the injection harness (like me) do you need to replace them both ??and then the gasket ?
Regards Adrian
the injector harness is the one pictured above... sits inside the rocker cover and has a connector poking out of the head.. thats the one to replace... the other can be flushed out.. search for ecu harness flush on here.... plenty of methods and all seem to work.. you'll also find pics and info about sealing the new injector harness
Thanks
Steve
Ok had an email from permatex....
The ultra Black Gasket maker IS suitable as its not conductive, its is oil resistant (it does say maximum oil resistance) and its available from supercrap autos so almost anyone can get it... so i'll keep an eye on how it performs.. it doesnt seem to stick too well to the plastic on the loom however, but im guessing thats because of the plastic being polypropylene or similar and nothing sticks to that...
anyway once i get time.. photos WILL follow
Thanks
Steve
Hi new to the this awesome site!!Quote:
Originally Posted by 5teve
To be clear why cant you also flush the Injector harness?
Assuming it cant be flushed how much does one normally sell for?
And is sitting it simply a plug and play procedure?
Thanks
02TD5Auto.
Hey welcome it is a awesome site enjoy.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002TD5Auto
The injector harness can be bought from karkraft for around $170 /with rocker gasket and delivery and it is quite simple to install .Flushing injector harness is a good Q. i don't know why ??