Ahh, the O-ring is shown in the engine overhaul manual, not the parts list.
Pages will be faxed in a few minutes.
I had a look at Microcat and the O-ring isn't shown or listed as a part.
However, I'm sure that in the paper parts catalogue (at home) it is shown. I'll check when I get home.
Yes, it probably is serviceable in situ. I'd fit a new circlip when you do it. I don't know why mine came out. It may have broken or it may not have been correctly seated after being refitted. It was taken out to apply some silicone rubber to stop an oil leak not long after I bought the car in 2002. I can't remember why a new O-ring wasn't fitted. Maybe they couldn't source one.
If you take it out, I'd love a pic and dimensions of the plug. I can then machine one up to get the old cover operational again. The length would be important to set the correct load on the spring.
After it all came out, I went back along the road and found the relief valve and spring in the gutter but not the plug. I knoew where it came out - there was a long oil trail in the middle of the road.![]()
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Ahh, the O-ring is shown in the engine overhaul manual, not the parts list.
Pages will be faxed in a few minutes.
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
When you pull the valve apart, you may find a spacer inside. Mine had one but it's not shown on that overhaul page.
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
OK, just an update on this oil leak. Ron has been a great help in finding out where the oil was coming from and what can be done about it ! (thanks Mate).
The oil pump has got an O'Ring in it held into the end with a Cir-clip. Problem being is there is just about no way you can get in there well enough to remove this cir-clip and replace the O-ring, would recomend that it would be best to remove the timing cover and repair on the bench
anyway This I will be doing but I need to pit the vehicle and dont have time.
So it was suggested to me by another Landrover Wiz that as its a low presure oil leak he recomends as a short term solution to add some engine stop leak (apprantly softens the neaprean in the seals and o-rings) and clean the inside lip where the Circlips sits with brake or carby cleaner, then fill the cavity with very oil resistant silicone / gasket goo !
When dry - NO MORE OIL LEAK !
Completed this today and .................. SO FAR SO GOOD !.......No Oil LEak.........before it would of driped when the revs went abouve 1500, held it a 2000 for 5 mins................ no leakwent for drive.............. came back checked......................no leak
Again its only TEmp but will work a treat untill I get time to dismantle the front of the engine !
Cheers
If you were nearby I'd give you a hand. A hoist makes it easier as you have to remove the sump to get the timing cover off.
It takes a couple of hours at my speed (slow) to do the whole job.
A mechanic would do it in half the time.
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Thanks, I do have a hosit at work and I will get it in there when I get time too ! Its just me and work are a bit busy at the moment, and I'll have to take the rangie off this Missus.
I will still report the finished job here and take a few pics when the timing cover is removed !
Cheers
Resurrecting an old thread, I have a small oil leak from the front cover area on my 4.6 so I will check the pressure switch and the other items mentioned in this
thread
Steve
Yes, but it's is a PITA. I built a small expanding push device from a bolt, washer and nut arrangement to enable the getting out and replacing of the circlip, pushing the centre of the cover plate with an anchor somewhere close to straight on the surrounding body area.
The o ring is generic, but replace with a viton 75 jobbie from a seal place.
Lots of bad language and top line expletives, but I was in a hurry. The idea is to compress the internal spring by pushing the cover plate, release the ciclip with right angle clip pliers, then ease the pushing device to release the spring pressure and the associated bits.
Replacement is where the action starts and the design of your 'push - in" device will be tested. The cover plate (pushing the spring and parts) has to be pushed about 6-8 mm AFAIR inside the edge of the timing cover in order to seat the circlip. Use a good sealant around the plate to help seal the assembly - the main part of the sealing is done by the o ring.
You may lose the oil pressure prime - I certainly did! Remove the oil pressure switch and prime the whole assembly from above with an 'oilie', cranking the engine with the fuel pump relay removed so it won't start. Replace oil pressure switch and sender cable. Check for idiot light, reprime if necessary - I put a bit of Morey's in the hole (thicker and got the prime quickly).
Vow never to do it again, while having a quiet, calming, well-earned drink!!!!
Cheers
Pete
Dizzie, 08 D3 TDV6 SE![]()
Quite a job by the sound of it !
The oil on mine doesn't seem to be coming from around the oil pressure switch but a little further down from around one or two of the bolt heads.
I'm going to clean it all up and see if I can narrow it down
Steve
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