Thread: Axles wearing? Do these pictures mean anything to anyone?

Originally Posted by weeds

hey aaron

my drive flanges and axles were worn way more than yours..... i upgraded to maxi at the same time


best way is to remove the five bolts holding the drive flanges on and remove the axles, give them a good clean so you can have a better look.....the axles don't look too worn and there only appears to be a small amount of wear in the flanges, this is something you should be able to do

i have never seen that coloured grease before

it is a good idea to convert to oil lubed

its not that hard of a job to do yourself but a workshop would easily knock it over in one day......i would suggest a landy repairer (not a dealer)

what suburb do you live in? i could drop around and have a look

That's due to the contamination.
I'd suggest that the grease wipers are shot and have allowed water into the hub. That's why I suggested inspection of the wheel bearings.

Originally Posted by weeds

what about the hub seal/s.....or would new double lipped? be already fitted to the later fenders

Good point - some I have worked on have already had them fitted, however you can't bank on it.

Aaron - It would be worthwhile converting the front at the same time.

Originally Posted by Xtreme

That's due to the contamination.
I'd suggest that the grease wipers are shot and have allowed water into the hub. That's why I suggested inspection of the wheel bearings.

yes my first thought was water contamination as well, but sometimes a picture does not tell 1000 words

Originally Posted by weeds

yes my first thought was water contamination as well, but sometimes a picture does not tell 1000 words

You're right but I was just going on the attached photo of mine after 46,000km from new. No actual evidence of water in hub but clearly the same colour and wear already started. They are now all oil fed, and like you, with a maxi in the rear.

Spoke to MR Automotive.

He said 900 for the back, and converting to oil fed. (using maxi-drive stuff)

The front he said around 500, though he didn't seem to sure on the exact price.

He didn't seem all that concerned about the amount of play ATM. He said one millimeter free play (As I described) isn't that major, but its deff going to have to be done. Im happy with that, it gives me time to research how to do it myself which I really want to do to build me mechanical ability.

He said if I do strip them all off, just put it into CDL to get home. Is that correct?

Ive packed them all with grease for now.

Was greasing the prop shaft nipples, and touched the bolts attaching the rear one to the hand brake. Every single one of them was loose to the touch. I was only reading this last night that it is common for that joint to be loose, and I was thinking "Wont happen with mine" heh. Pays to check.

I recommend Billstien steering dampers to anyone :-)

Just took it for a test drive. Clunk is GONE!

Originally Posted by Aaron

<snip>
...and touched the bolts attaching the rear one to the hand brake. Every single one of them was loose to the touch. I was only reading this last night that it is common for that joint to be loose, and I was thinking "Wont happen with mine" heh. Pays to check.

I recommend Billstien steering dampers to anyone :-)

I replaced my nuts (Ok ok, the nuts on that drive flange ) with aircraft K nuts (all metal lock nuts) after finding the OE nylocs dead loose when I bought the truck.
I suspect that the heat from the transmission buggers up the nylon in the nyloc, letting them come loose.

The K nuts are a pain to do up as they have a reduced head, but they've never come undone without my assistance.
Those bolts are one of the few spots on a Defender that are imperial threads.

I tend to clean out the bolt holes with carb or brake cleaner and use thread lock & spring washers on the bolts.
The cast flanges are supposedly the 'sacreficial' element in the drive train and so long as you keep them well greased they will last quite well. I use the very sticky Copper Slip grease when re-assembling and also remember to keep the dust caps in good order.

The best option is to convert to the oil seal type flange as offered by Maxi-drive. But this is expensive.
With proper maintainance and regular greasing the shafts and flanges will last a long long time.