Thread: Axles wearing? Do these pictures mean anything to anyone?

Originally Posted by Aaron

Chasing down The rear clunk in my 110. (clunks when you release the clutch when changing gears first through to third.)

I had a look at the A frame bushes and they all look solid.

No one has mentioned th A-frame ball joint. That's a prime cause of clunking. Get a lever and see if it moves at all. If it does, replace it.

Originally Posted by p38arover

No one has mentioned th A-frame ball joint. That's a prime cause of clunking. Get a lever and see if it moves at all. If it does, replace it.

Yeah thats all sweet. It was the rear prop shaft in the end. Bolts were all loose (read up a few posts)

Whats everyones opinions on axles/flanges. Axles with seperate flanges, or one piece axle/flange. I like Rover Tracks axles, and I like their price.

I prefer the 2 piece units sole because if you spud up a shaft or diff and you cant get the axle out you can pull the flange off of the axle, drop the prop shaft and drive with the bearing exposed (for a while).

Is stripping the splines (brake disc end) a common injury? Id imagine with the factory set up it would be a rareity dute to a cast flange been softer than the axle? But with equal strength aftermarket HD axle/flange what would let go first? I know Id rather replace a flange than an axle.

its not unheard of but its not as common as say, toyota drivers being embarrased off road after baging out a landie.

IVe seen may 10 cases of it where Ive changed them (6 of those on series rovers 2 on discos (one mine) and a couple of perenties) and one case where it was soooo bad I was stunned that the certain D130TD5 thats been chipped to stupidy and eats ZF's for breakfast and annoys the hell out of George130 everytime its got to be towed home was even able to move under its own power without the CDL enganged.

given that its done it to a set of Maxidrives............ but at last check they were still working.

Originally Posted by Aaron

Is stripping the splines (brake disc end) a common injury? Id imagine with the factory set up it would be a rareity dute to a cast flange been softer than the axle? But with equal strength aftermarket HD axle/flange what would let go first? I know Id rather replace a flange than an axle.

More common than people realise. When I bought the 130, it'd travelled 76,000km. When I pulled the flanges I was amazed the thing was still driving, there was bugger all spline left on either the drive flange or axles.
Maxi's went straight in.
Mum and Warwicks 110 ended up with Maxi's for the same reason, and they transferred them over to their 130 when it was acquired as the axles and flanges were fairly worn in it too.

A friend ended up stranded on the edge of the Simpson thanks to the flanges letting go on his 110. (before i knew him) He didn't know of the problem and isn't mechanically inclined. He reckoned it was bloody embarrassing being towed out by a TLC (and he now owns a 79 Series )

We run oil lubed hubs too like the older 110's and Series. mostly they never have a problem.
I still ran greased bearings for a while, and had the splines coated with a race spec moly/dry solids CV grease and it still isn't as good as letting the diff oil lube them.

Why do they have splines, and not just a big square or hex?

Am I able to remove the drive flanges just for the sake of inquisitive exploration easily and with out having to replace seals/lubricants? I.e, undo the 5 nuts, take flange off, look and replace.

Ive searched Rave, its not on there is it?

Originally Posted by Aaron

Why do they have splines, and not just a big square or hex?

Am I able to remove the drive flanges just for the sake of inquisitive exploration easily and with out having to replace seals/lubricants? I.e, undo the 5 nuts, take flange off, look and replace.

Ive searched Rave, its not on there is it?

yep remove the five bolts

remove the circlip, clean them up and have a good look

there is a gasket between the flange and hubs, if are carefull you should be able to reuse