Tie rod ends, who makes the best ones ?

Boxhead63 · 18th February 2009, 08:22 PM

Just replaced the ones in my D1.... I was chasing a problem that turned out to be the steering box. Upon close inspection on the tie rods they were all in exceptional condition even the seals. I will qualify this by saying that I know both previous owners and asked about the problem at the time ie; if the tie rods had been replaced? No, they were the originals.
If they're factory they're factory they might be ok in this cicumstance..........Maybe?

Rob

**rick130** · 18th February 2009, 08:23 PM

Funny you should mention this John.
Mine are actually still OK as far as movement or the lack thereof, but I've replaced the boots twice and they are looking a bit ratty inside the now torn again boots. 255,000km and still original.

I replaced the Panhard rod bushes the other night (which were actually OK, even after being soaked in PAS fluid on and off for 100,000km) and while the drag link one was off I jammed some grease inside and installed a new boot. Considering the aggro of popping them off, washing out, drying, jamming full of grease again and installing new boots I could have installed a new one more quickly.

**LOVEMYRANGIE** · 18th February 2009, 09:12 PM

Originally Posted by D3Jon

Lemforder are a pretty good brand arn't they? These are the ones I stuck on the 110 last year.

Jon

Lemforder are fairly good quality. Used to distribute Lemforder for European truck applications. Having sold bucket loads of Lem parts, would give them the big nod!

**MacFamily** · 18th February 2009, 09:46 PM

I did mine about month ago they gave me Lemforder for the right and these for the left the bag says Karsons.I bought them from British Offroad.

So far so good but I havent done any real offroad with them yet and rubber boot seems to be ok but time will tell.

I like to keep spare's so I bought extra just in case

lokka · 19th February 2009, 12:25 AM

Ive been getting mine from Garry at CLR in sydney there a QH brand they are greaseable and look to be just as good as the OE items and at a great price he usualy sells them on ebay i just call him and buy em over the fone im about to get another load of em in the next week or so

**uninformed** · 19th February 2009, 06:10 AM

for those ZF Lemforder type TRE, why not drill and tap a grease nipple in the top??? thats whats done to my OEM TRE that didnt have nipples...

mmmmmmmmmmmmm....... nipples

Serg

**Pedro_The_Swift** · 19th February 2009, 06:30 AM

Originally Posted by rick130

(which were actually OK, even after being soaked in PAS fluid on and off for 100,000km)

**JDNSW** · 19th February 2009, 06:53 AM

Originally Posted by uninformed

for those ZF Lemforder type TRE, why not drill and tap a grease nipple in the top??? thats whats done to my OEM TRE that didnt have nipples...

mmmmmmmmmmmmm....... nipples

Serg

This type of tie rod end, if properly constructed, and with undamaged boots, do not need greasing. Providing grease nipples encourages owners to damage the seals and to inject grit by failing to have both the grease nipple and grease gun scrupulously clean. Unlike bits such as universal joints that have a lot of movement (and hence both change a lot in temperature) and have a very small grease reservoir, tie rod ends have relatively little and infrequent movement, a large grease reservoir and usually good seals (on the originals anyway). My conclusion is that unless you operate in an environment where damage to the rubbers is virtually inevitable, I would be reluctant to add grease nipples to good quality tie rod ends, and would be suspicious of ones whose manufacturer thinks they are needed - a clear indication of inadequate seals or poor quality grease used.

John

**rick130** · 19th February 2009, 07:22 AM

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

The centre crush tube and bolt were a bit flogged at the chassis end.
It had an occasional 'clunk' despite the bolt done up VFT, I had the bushes on the shelf and it isn't a hard job.

I could've just wrapped some shim stock inside the crush tube and used a new bolt too, but the rubber was starting to look a bit, well, used, so i just kept going.....
A new clevis bolt is on it's way too.

**loanrangie** · 19th February 2009, 08:21 PM

Originally Posted by JDNSW

This type of tie rod end, if properly constructed, and with undamaged boots, do not need greasing. Providing grease nipples encourages owners to damage the seals and to inject grit by failing to have both the grease nipple and grease gun scrupulously clean. Unlike bits such as universal joints that have a lot of movement (and hence both change a lot in temperature) and have a very small grease reservoir, tie rod ends have relatively little and infrequent movement, a large grease reservoir and usually good seals (on the originals anyway). My conclusion is that unless you operate in an environment where damage to the rubbers is virtually inevitable, I would be reluctant to add grease nipples to good quality tie rod ends, and would be suspicious of ones whose manufacturer thinks they are needed - a clear indication of inadequate seals or poor quality grease used.

John

Most greasable joints fail because of people who like to pump 10x more grease in than the boot can handle which of course split letting in dust/mud causing them to flog out, if they have nipples and are full of grease i'd remove the nipple and plug the hole.

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