Thread: Leaky Diff flange

It could be a blocked breather causing the buildup of pressure but it could also be your diff pinion seal.

This is only a 20 minute fix and about $10 for the seal.

Let us know how you go.

Don't worry about the crush spacer... It's a doddle to deal with.

Mark the position of the nut relative to the flange. Then, crack the nut and count the number of turns until the nut comes off. When re-fitting, count the number of turns and then line up the markings. Easy peasy...

M

A pinion seal on a Salisbury is easy, you just need a good socket and a long bar
If the flange has a groove worn in it you will need a speedi sleeve number 99187. My last one had only a slight groove that I thought I could get away with, but it still stuffed the new seal within a year. Make sure the seal they sell you is the right one for the diff, the later ones wont fit the early diffs and get munched when you tighten the pinion nut, ask me how I know.............

Originally Posted by jimbo110

A pinion seal on a Salisbury is easy, you just need a good socket and a long bar
If the flange has a groove worn in it you will need a speedi sleeve number 99187. My last one had only a slight groove that I thought I could get away with, but it still stuffed the new seal within a year. Make sure the seal they sell you is the right one for the diff, the later ones wont fit the early diffs and get munched when you tighten the pinion nut, ask me how I know.............

Thanks... I done them on my series here in the past with no grief. I just still think they're better not disturbed if possible.

With 260K on it I may as well get the speedi sleeve. As it's in use every day here I can't pluck it out for a look.

I'll order it through All Four X 4 at Kotara as they know the vehicle

Tony

I've just done this job, twice, in the last 3 weeks on a sals. My tips:

* make sure you use the rubber seal, not the genuine leather LR one
* yes, mark the nut and pinion and count the number of turns
* CRC the 9/16ths / 14mm prop shaft bolts the night before doing the job
* When removing the pinion nut, I put a spare nut/bolt through one of the 4 flange holes then propped it on a trolley jack to stop the flange turning
* Make sure to seal the seal mating surface with hylomar etc and seat the seal at least 1mm below the top edge of the diff. I did not do this properly the first time and the seal leaked from the outer edge against the diff housing.
* I didn't bother speedy sleeving the flange. A new flange is not that expensive

Sorry if you already know all this

Originally Posted by isuzu110

I've just done this job, twice, in the last 3 weeks on a sals. My tips:

* make sure you use the rubber seal, not the genuine leather LR one
* yes, mark the nut and pinion and count the number of turns
* CRC the 9/16ths / 14mm prop shaft bolts the night before doing the job
* When removing the pinion nut, I put a spare nut/bolt through one of the 4 flange holes then propped it on a trolley jack to stop the flange turning
* Make sure to seal the seal mating surface with hylomar etc and seat the seal at least 1mm below the top edge of the diff. I did not do this properly the first time and the seal leaked from the outer edge against the diff housing.
* I didn't bother speedy sleeving the flange. A new flange is not that expensive

Sorry if you already know all this

Spend $120 and get the newer seal with metal dust cover,you'll never touch it again. Pat

Hi Pat,
$120 for a seal and dust cover ??!! Or is this for a new flange and seal/cover assembly?
Ian

The whole lot.Solves all the dramas in one go.My '96 disco has one but my '98 fenda doesn't,go figure. Pat