yes, I am looking forward to being able to have a single winch to go fore and aft. I've toyed with the idea of reviving the old Ramsey REP9500 for on the front for a second option but will wait and see how the Thomas goes with the rearward - forward design. The whole concept was to get the weight more evenly distributed and a second winch back on the front (unless it has synthetic rope) would negate the whole rationale of this. I could also of course mount the Ramsey to a remote bracket and have Hayman Reece hitches around the truck but I have never yet been in a position where this would prove handy. The Hi-Lift winch kit I also carry has been of use in some strange angle pulls from the side but only to stablise and not to retrieve.
Yes, aside from as discussed above the original project plan still stands. I will be routing the cable from the rear snatch block over to the middle cross member under the deck. From there it changes direction to straighten relative to the chassis and head downwards to the gearbox mount on passenger side. I will use greasible 8000kg snatch blocks for these direction changes. The gearbox mount is to be built from scratch to include a snatch block. I'll not alter the original incase things go pear-shaped. From here it'll come out through the gap between the top of the steering damper and the front cross-member.
Yes, I have got very short wire runs to the solenoid from the battery in this set-up. I have single-line winched logs for up to a minute and could still touch the cables and the winch motor. Very pleased with the way this project is falling together. That is the new motor on the winch. Did I mention that the motor from the Thomas is the exact same specifications as for the Ramsey REP9500? I will use the old motor from the Thomas on the Ramsey if I use it. otherwise is a spare part.
I simply power in or out momentarily to engage/disengage the dog clutch. once disengaged the line free-spools reasonably easy. Once it has been free-spooled out, I simply start pulling in. The winch slowly comes round to re-engage the dog clutch.
This exhaust pipe was a exhaust-shop muck-up. I asked for their ideas on muffler position and angles etc and with a few minor verbal adjustments to their ideas, all agreed and I left them to it. I should have put it into drawings and writing. The overall lay of the pipe route is where I want it but the finished design now needs tweaking in several locations. The muffler is mounted on edge instead of flat. It sits flush with the bottom of the chassis rails whereas if it had been installed flat it would have been a few inches inside of the chassis framework. The joiners they have used and the position of them will need changing eventually. The welding looks like it is something I would have done with one eye closed. The exit of the tailpipe leaves black carbon on the inside of the rear chassis member. Otherwise it is fine.
It has the main muffler in the same location generally as OEM. It then goes up as per the picture above, and over the chassis to the outside of the chassis rail. It then runs straight as possible parallel with the flat-deck mounting points on the chassis (approx 2 inches above the rear spring turret) before turning out to the ill-placed tailpipe location. All is 2.5". Goes well enough but the craftmanship left a lot to be desired. For the money I could have crafted a first class gas welded system myself old-school style but I did not have the time.
Cheers,
Phil
Thomas winch manuals now available for download
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/local_link...id=7&linkid=87
Cheers
Danny
Alan
2005 Disco 2 HSE
1983 Series III Stage 1 V8
35 years ago... don't know whether the beers have improved with age but our pubs stay open after 6pm now so you can sample a few more of them...![]()
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