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Thread: D4 Electric Trailer Brake Wiring

  1. #491
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
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    NSW
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    It pops out. It has two clips at the top and two at the bottom. I found it tricky because I didn't want to scratch the panel. Also with your earlier question, the module is attached to the second skin behind the facia panel.

  2. #492
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    Feb 2008
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    Dandenong Ranges - Victoria
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    Finally got around to fitting my brake controller, as I need to use it next weekend....
    After looking at various places that others had mounted the remote control I decided I wanted it up on the dash in clear view.
    Not the easiest place to access, but not so bad once you get brave enough to start tearing the fascia apart.

    Edit: FYI you need to modify the remote housing (I used a dremel like rotary tool) to get it come far enough through the fascia and open up some clearance in behind the trim as well.
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  3. #493
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    Apr 2011
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    Coffs Harbour
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    Took more than 16 years to post
    Look at the date,
    2012 Fuji White 3.0 D4, Rear view camera, Hi-line sound, E-diff, Xenon lights, ARB winch bar, Lightforce 240 50w HID. Brads sliders.

  4. #494
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Dandenong Ranges - Victoria
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    It's a very, very early build D4.......

  5. #495
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    Sydney
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    OK have read this thread 3 times, printed off all the pages and ready to have a go. Just waiting for the Traxide kit from Tim so I can do all the work at the same time. Already have the Redarc Tow Pro Elite.

    In short summary:
    - Mounting EBC under the steering wheel
    - Mounting remote head in the light binnacle on the right hand side
    - Run two wires through the firewall to the battery and earth post, with a 30amp auto reset circuit breaker
    - Run 2 wires from EBC down to the R/L/H compartment
    - Connect cut brown wire after splice and connect to the blue wire from EBC
    - Splice red wire from EBC in to red wire in loom
    - Wire in diode BEFORE the splice in the red wire with current flowing to plug

    easy peasy right?

    Anyone live in Sydney, like beer and got nothing to do Saturday? LOL

    Thanks for a very informative post guys, although it seems a little daunting removing panels and cutting wires in a brand new car, I feel pretty confident.

    Jason.

  6. #496
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
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    You'll be right Jason.
    I did both jobs at same time over a weekend.
    I started with Traxide as it explains how to rung wires from front to back then added Tow Pro wires.
    It can be a little fiddly in places but as you have mentioned, the information in posts and from Tim are great, it's a fantastic resource.
    Take your time, measure twice cut once.
    Good luck.
    Vin
    Cheers Vin

    2025 D350 Defender 110

  7. #497
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Sydney
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    LHS or RHS ??

    Tim's instructions are to run the Traxide wiring down the right hand side in to the storage compartment. I intend to run the Tow Pro wiring at the same time, but do I need to cross over to the LHS to splice in to the wiring for the towbar 12N socket?

  8. #498
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    Feb 2016
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    Melbourne
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    Correct.
    I ran across with power cable to 12v outlet on LHS compartment.
    Cheers Vin

    2025 D350 Defender 110

  9. #499
    LRD414's Avatar
    LRD414 is offline Super Moderator Subscriber
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
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    And if you got the D4-5S Traxide kit you will be running a wire across to LHS anyway, for connection to the LHS power socket, which is additional to the new Traxide RHS power socket. This step will be in the Traxide instructions if you have that kit but in any case it is easy, just remove the tailgate flap section and lift carpet to place wiring.

    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
    Link to my D4 Build Thread
    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

  10. #500
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Kallangur, Brisbane
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    My take on the location of the Red Arc brake controller.
    The remote unit is double sided taped onto the cover & fits neatly into the opening in the dash when you clip it closed.
    I also fettled the slots in the dash that the steel clips on the cover clip into so that the cover opens easier & without losing the clips.

    What a fantastic brake controller! Works like a dream compared to the old Tekonsha in my D2.

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    + 2016 D4 TDV6

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