Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Interesting this? Was it a genuine? I've had similar problems in the past. I wont post the out come yet
BTW, if your worried about the cholesterol in the older vehicle it's OK the separate the yokeIts the white bits that block the leaks. I still recommend the pepper as will hold the egg longer.
No. Immediately behind the plastic grille and sandwiched between it and the metalwork is a sheet of insect netting, backed by 12mm square mesh netting, to keep the grass seeds and grasshoppers out of the condenser and radiator. Plastic strips cut from damp course slip down between the mesh and the grille, fitting between the ribs that support the louvres in the grille. The number blocked or open can be varied with the weather.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Yes, it does have the bypass. And the heater is full flow (and is virtually not working at present, although I have flushed it out - I suspect the problem is that cold air is getting past the core. I will pull it off and pull it apart while the radiator is out I think.)
Today I took the radiator in to the radiator bloke in town, after showing it to him in the vehicle when I was in last week. He tested it while I was doing the shopping, and confirmed what I pretty well knew anyway - the core has had it. I am getting him to recore it at a cost of $800. He says it will take him two days to get the core, and he may even have it done by Friday.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
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