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Thread: Slight problem.

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    It does not seem to be a single tube, but several pin holes in several tubes - in the middle of the core, so a bit hard to see just what is going on except the general area of the leak. And I am afraid that if I start cutting fins to get access to it, I will start a lot more leaks.

    John
    skip the bars, raid the fridge drop in the 2 eggs start it up and put a blanket over the front of the radiator to promote faster heatup.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  2. #12
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    skip the bars, raid the fridge drop in the 2 eggs start it up and put a blanket over the front of the radiator to promote faster heatup.
    I run a muff blocking most of the radiator anyway throughout winter - otherwise, even with a new thermostat it takes 20km+ to warm up.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #13
    Rangier Rover Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    I run a muff blocking most of the radiator anyway throughout winter - otherwise, even with a new thermostat it takes 20km+ to warm up.

    John
    Interesting this? Was it a genuine? I've had similar problems in the past. I wont post the out come yet

    BTW, if your worried about the cholesterol in the older vehicle it's OK the separate the yoke Its the white bits that block the leaks. I still recommend the pepper as will hold the egg longer.

  4. #14
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rangier Rover View Post
    Interesting this? Was it a genuine? ..........
    No. Immediately behind the plastic grille and sandwiched between it and the metalwork is a sheet of insect netting, backed by 12mm square mesh netting, to keep the grass seeds and grasshoppers out of the condenser and radiator. Plastic strips cut from damp course slip down between the mesh and the grille, fitting between the ribs that support the louvres in the grille. The number blocked or open can be varied with the weather.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    I run a muff blocking most of the radiator anyway throughout winter - otherwise, even with a new thermostat it takes 20km+ to warm up.

    John
    Does your engine have the bypass hose the truck motors have? My rangie is fully warm in about 6km of driving in sub zero conditions. I blocked my factory bypass hose as the rangie heater core is full flow.

  6. #16
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Does your engine have the bypass hose the truck motors have? My rangie is fully warm in about 6km of driving in sub zero conditions. I blocked my factory bypass hose as the rangie heater core is full flow.
    Yes, it does have the bypass. And the heater is full flow (and is virtually not working at present, although I have flushed it out - I suspect the problem is that cold air is getting past the core. I will pull it off and pull it apart while the radiator is out I think.)

    Today I took the radiator in to the radiator bloke in town, after showing it to him in the vehicle when I was in last week. He tested it while I was doing the shopping, and confirmed what I pretty well knew anyway - the core has had it. I am getting him to recore it at a cost of $800. He says it will take him two days to get the core, and he may even have it done by Friday.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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