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Nice work. I'm very interested to see how that turbo works out.
To fit the truck box you'll need either the truck engine bellhousing (with a matching starter) or Grubbs adapter ring. If you can I would add another plate to the flywheel face (and get it balanced) to give some extra inertia and smoothness at low rpm.
I plan to do this when I've got through my endless list of other junk.
I am interested to see what the outcome is too but I'm taking time this time to make sure everything looks good and functions correctly...Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougal
I did not get the truck flywheel housing but I have intensions of making my own adaptor plate (hopefully)..I will need to get a custom made slave cylinder line made up as it it opposite to the landrover as you would know...
Well the vibrations are very annoying as it makes me cringe waiting for something to break in the driveline as everything is under load.
I have been following your post around the net on this topic and I may give it a go but I'm not sure how much extra weight though ??
Here is one more data point.Quote:
Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f
The cummins 4BT flywheels are roughly twice the weight and similar diameter. The cummins boys seem to get away with running much lighter gearboxes than we do.
Whatever you decide to do, you'll probably beat me to finish. I've got one vehicle to fix and sell (frost plugs leaking behind injector pump, engine out to fix), one vehicle to upgrade (engine out, hybrid gearbox, fit turbo, fit intercooler, retune) and bulldozers and tractors which aren't mine to sort out. That's on top of work and ahead of the rangie flywheel/gearbox sort out in the queue.
I do have CAD models of the truck engine bellhousing and flywheel. So I can help you out with measurements when the time comes.
Nice find with the box.Quote:
Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f
I can tell you that my shift kit would fit that.
Also if the length of the rear extention housing over 6th gear as indicated in the pic is under about 150mm then if you don't go a divorced case, it should be possible to keep the transfer case in the orginal position.
http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/...1/distance.jpg
Thanks dougal your help is always welcome !! I wondering if I would be able to balance the flywheel at home ? Wow sounds like your project list is very large so you have an excuse unlike me :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougal
Sheldon good to hear from you again I was planning on getting in touch with you as soon as I have time to get measurements...I will certainly be interested in the shifting linkage setup you have..I'll get measurements ASAP for everyone.
My largest concern at the moment is how I'm going to drill a hole in the engine block so the twin oil filter setup will work..anyone have any info/links?
Very nearly the same gearbox as mine, bell housing and speedo drive look different (but hard to see clearly in thet pick).
The tube from the truck sump is for the drain from the oil collector for 4BD1T breather.
With the sump off it should be ok to drill the crankcase for the by-pass filter drain as tou can clean out any shavings.
The input shaft of the MXA is larger. I used a clutch plate from a very late 4BD1T, when they changed to the MXA gearbox.
The MXA 6 speed shares much with the MXA 5 speed. Ratios are same for 5R, with 5th being overdrive, with the addition of 6th (also O.D.) in the extension housing.
Because of the length of the 6 speed box I looked at close coupling an LT230 by resplining the LT230 input gear, but the gear case was too fat and the front drive extension of the LT230 wouldn't clear by a large margin. The extra length of grubb's kit, which involves an extension from the gearbox output flange, might be enough to squeeze it in. But the LT230 will be shifted further back from stock.
The top selector can only be moved when the side selector lever is in neutral, not fully forward or back.
With the 6 speed, the selector lever on top has 4 positions, which may not be obvious from 1st inspection. It moves freely (no spring resistance) over a short arc, which appears like slack, but is in fact movement between 2 of the positions (2nd/3rd & 4th/5th), move fully to the left (clockwise against spring) for 1st/rev, fully right against spring for 6th.
I'm wondering if one of these:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...012/05/762.jpg off road race transfer box motorsport
and some ingenuity attached to the Isuzu driveflange will sort the power transmission out. Then you just need to build attachment for the casings.
I'm getting annoyed with my current setup leaking (porous cast aluminium adapter) and am considering a variation on the above. This way I can keep the leak free Isuzu box rear end and get a decent seal into the lt230.
John, my 5 speed box also had no spring support but from gears 1-2 and 3-4. I took the top cover off and welded in a steel leaf-spring to give enough centering action that 3-4 was easier to find. It was a very ugly modification at the time, but it's still in there and working 9 years later.
Right, I've done far too much in the last half hour and here are the results.
The Rakeway shaft (I've emailled them for a price) uses the rover diff drive-flange pattern. I already have that in solidworks.
The MSA-5G output flange I dug out of a box in the garage it's been in for about 3 years (my memory scares me).
The rover flange has a group of 4 3/8" bolts on 2x2.5" (50.8x60.3mm). The index diameter (recess) is 60mm, the PCD is ~79mm.
The Isuzu flange has a group of 12mm bolts on 59x81mm, index diameter is 80mm (protrusion) and the PCD is ~100mm.
I don't have the exact lengths as there are speedo drive gears etc not in my computer model. But I have at least 50mm to build an adapter block between the Isuzu output shaft in it's normal position and the Rakeway/Rover drive flange where I think it roughly goes.
So, the $1,000,000 question. How much longer is the 6 than the 5? Can I fit one in too?:angel:
Thank guys I will go over your previous post when I get some time to comprehend what was said :D I was thinking about modifying a output shaft from say a r380 etc etc and mounting that to the Isuzu box output flange the rest is obvious but I need to figure a way out how to do it with minimal welding and maximum alignment which may pose a problem...I shal take some more photos and post some measurements of my box :angel: the sarvo ...
As for drilling the block for oil return I am asuming by looking at the housing that bolts to the matching surface on the block I need to drill a hole on the top left quadrant ? Any idea on hole size ?