Thread: c.h.i.e.f 's 110 Isuzu county

At the moment I am running rancho adjustable shocks as I didn't have the funds to spend big dollars on coilovers yet since these shocks are a bit larger than the originals I made up some adjustable shock mounts by pressing plate into an "S" shape with my press and then welding gussets front and rear to strengthen them...






Only problem is I didn't get around to making dislocation cones or retainers so this happens

Oh and in the photo it looks like I sprayed them whilst on the car but I didn't it was just where I cleaned the chassis of all dirt before mounting the mounts.

I then decided to get this!

Ok as for turbo setup...
I received a brand new Garrett GT2052s off a mate , it was brand new ready to go onto a td5




I decided to muck around with the standard NA manifold and used the milling machine to machine the surfaces ready to weld 2 cast iron plates onto the dump ready to mount turbo (gt2052s has a triangular flange unlike most)



This lasted for a few months as a trial then I bought a turbo manifold to be done with it but I still had the problem of flange types so I made this as a quick solution which I also made a socket for the EGT probe to fit





I ran the gt2052s with wastegate actuator rod fully out the minimum boost it would make was 13psi (not knowing anything then about this sort of stuff I thought it was good but now I know this turbo was not suitable for what power levels I am chasing now)..from here I kept turning the boost up until smoke was not evident and left it for a few months until I wanted more so I turned the fuel up some more then boost then fuel and so on so forth until I decided to make a bracket up to hold the wastegate permanently shut and fuel screw sitting in the console which gave a max boost of around 25psi..
After this the idling and low down power was effected and surging/hunting was occurring and it would stall if I didn't give it some right foot so out came the IP and off came the governor housing so we could get the little spring that attaches to the control rack "rod" which we thought may have been floating causings the surging.

Unfortunately it was not the cause even though the spring was stretched!! Whilst it was out we set it up on the test bench and continuously experiment with grinding the torque cam and then running it on the test bench to see what the fuel delivery was at particular rpm's and adjusted from what I could gather was the idle fuel setting (I was mainly watching my mate do the work on it) ..
So then after playing around for hours trying to line the IP back up again since if you line the pump drive gear up with the pointer on the timing case it so happens to be at the IP spring return (top dead) so it wanted to click back and forth until I came up with a great idea to mark the crank pulley and set everything up whilst off top dead and then checked that it all came back around and lined up as per normal (hard to explain)

I then took it for a spin and noticed that the boost would hit 30psi and stay there (gauge only goes to 30psi so who knows the correct figure ) now in 3rd,4th &5th if I planted the right foot boost pressure would be at 30psi and a thick jet of black smoke would continue all the way to the governor at this stage I planned for something to break which was most likely the turbo which I was correct as after 1week the turbine wheel was rattling around in the exhaust pipe ....
Performance at this stage though was nice to the stage of in the wet with 33's in a straight line if I planted the right foot it would hit the governor and sounded like it was bouncing on and off like a petrol engine hitting its limiter and spinning the wheels...

Next was the fitment of a tb28

After the failure of the little turbo I found a turbo on a 4.6L hino truck that so happened to be a tb28 part number 704689-6 exhaust A/R 0.67



problem was the t3 inlet was vertically orientated where as on our manifold there horizontally orientated so another adapter was made (on the left)




Turbo was mounted even though it sat high in the engine bay it mounted easily





Before I started the engine i got a little tube and poked down the oil inlet where I then pour a little bit of engine oil down into the turbo journal bearing then connect the oil line just so there is a little bit of oil on startup just so it's not dry...
Ok started the engine and instantly noticed that everything sounded better than the previous turbo because the motor freed up and didn't sound restricted it also allowed the motor to idle normally where as the smaller turbo made the motor sound choked....unfortunately the compressor started leaking oil after a few mins of running and I decided to take the turbo off seeing as I had the ****s now as nothing was going right for me that day I then ordered my new turbo to be done with it...

Wheelspin hey, aslong as you don't think it's all four

Haha as a lot of discussion has occurred on this topic but on gravel it is possible I recon but mostly only going from what others on the outside have said 1 back and 1 front spins ... From my feeling the front right feels like it spins the fastests (maybe the only one) this is further enhanced when turning a right hand corner but the same cannot be said with the other side...the vibrations/rumble from the flywheel area whilst under full song is more of a worry as the gearbox makes terrible noises so lockers are not on the cards yet so cannot see what spins then

Ok a few months back I purchased this





Garrett GTX3071R

Now the problem I had was the compressors housing is quite large and hence hits on the exhaust manifold before the exhaust flange mates to the manifold



So I got a friend to cut me a 40mm spacer out on his hydro cutter





It then was a perfect distance and can be drilled and tapped for EGT probe



Just need to get time to mount it up to the motor after front diff has had its makeover that it's half way through...