Not so budget turbo install

I couldn't get a mandrel bend tight enough to go around the alternator cleanly, so had to use a doughnut. They are not bent, but two circles pressed together, 3"ID. The horizontal seam is the join.

Sadly the welds are not good close up, I only had 2.4mm electrodes, and using them on 1.6 material meant a fine line between no pool and blowing through (which I did a few times). Kept me on my toes and cursing for not having a foot pedal!

The EFR turbos only have a facility for v-band exhaust attachment - no holes for bolts so I got the band and flange from GCG. I was told a regular v-band was too wide so got the EFR specific one.

Should work out well as the exhaust will need to be removed for access to pretty much anything on the passengers side of the engine, I also made sure the flange on the bottom is easily accessible with an angle grinder for this reason :)

You should have used a v band flange on the bottom, that way you simply remove 2 clamps and the dump pipe comes straight out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by flagg

I couldn't get a mandrel bend tight enough to go around the alternator cleanly, so had to use a doughnut. They are not bent, but two circles pressed together, 3"ID. The horizontal seam is the join.

Sadly the welds are not good close up, I only had 2.4mm electrodes, and using them on 1.6 material meant a fine line between no pool and blowing through (which I did a few times). Kept me on my toes and cursing for not having a foot pedal!

The EFR turbos only have a facility for v-band exhaust attachment - no holes for bolts so I got the band and flange from GCG. I was told a regular v-band was too wide so got the EFR specific one.

Should work out well as the exhaust will need to be removed for access to pretty much anything on the passengers side of the engine, I also made sure the flange on the bottom is easily accessible with an angle grinder for this reason :)

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Thanks Flagg. Never worked with donuts but sounds like what I've needed a few times.

Not sure what sort of TIG you've got, but on my Mitech, I can keep toggling the trigger on/off frequently (current dies off with the downslope setting) to taper off the current a bit when its getting too hot.
I'm definitely no expert (and have never used a foot pedal) but find that technique quite handy when coming to edges/corners etc.

Where/whats GCG that the flange came from?

Steve

Quote:

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Originally Posted by two up

You should have used a v band flange on the bottom, that way you simply remove 2 clamps and the dump pipe comes straight out.

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Yeah that was the original plan, but I was concerned that the vband would fill with crap and become difficult to get off. If it was mounted with the clamp at the bottom, it might gat caught on something and damaged or damage the turbo, and if it was mounted clamp on top it would be hard to cut off... Would be neat though, and definitely would do it in a car that wasn't for off road.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by steveG

Thanks Flagg. Never worked with donuts but sounds like what I've needed a few times.

Not sure what sort of TIG you've got, but on my Mitech, I can keep toggling the trigger on/off frequently (current dies off with the downslope setting) to taper off the current a bit when its getting too hot.
I'm definitely no expert (and have never used a foot pedal) but find that technique quite handy when coming to edges/corners etc.

Where/whats GCG that the flange came from?

Steve

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Yeah I think mine has something similar, ill have to have a look at it.

GCG are a turbo place in Sydney. (Gcg.com.au) they sure know how to charge for things though!! If you are after one I'd try fullrace or treatstone performance first.

"We recommend that oil reaches the turbo in less that 4 seconds during a cold start cranking, and in under 1 second during hot-start conditions... Inlet oil pressure (gage) is recommended to be at least 1bar (15psi) and not more than 4bar (60psi) under all “fully warmed-up” conditions."

Quoting from my install manual. Does that oil pressure sound ok for a 4bd1?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by flagg

"We recommend that oil reaches the turbo in less that 4 seconds during a cold start cranking, and in under 1 second during hot-start conditions... Inlet oil pressure (gage) is recommended to be at least 1bar (15psi) and not more than 4bar (60psi) under all “fully warmed-up” conditions."

Quoting from my install manual. Does that oil pressure sound ok for a 4bd1?

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Oil pressure sits somewhere in between 50-60 psi at the idiot light port in normal conditions, so I guess it should be okay?

Thanks Mike, sounds perfect. By the time it gets thought the feed to the turbo it should be within tolerance.

Bit of progress: oil lines done, drain tapped, EGT tapped in manifold, air filter done. I ran out of bends for the exhaust, so a bit to go there.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1361267554

Ground, drilled and tapped by hand. Put it in this spot as it gave me just enough room to clear the crank case ventilation above.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1361267574

Thanks SteveG - you were right. The manifold was indeed thicker that I thought. :)

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1361267646

Also I fitted gas struts to the bonnet. My god, it makes such a difference! Will be interesting to see how it lasts, but so far this is one of the best mods I've done.

Was using notes on iCloud to keep track of everything, what needed to be done, buy, notes, part numbers etc. But it disappeared - now I'm completely lost! haha damn it. Every single thing I had done was on there.

From memory, I have to finish the exhaust, plumb the provent, fit the intercooler and the gauges.

Mmmm - those struts look the goods, especially since my bonnet has got a lot heavier with the insulation fitted.
Were they a kit from somewhere, or you just bought some and fitted.
More details please :)

Steve