4BD1T Turbo Sizing and Performance Prediction.

**Dougal** · 2nd December 2014, 09:17 AM

Originally Posted by workingonit

Dougal, I'm curious.

If I read correctly, on page 40 you indicated pre ICooler temps should be about 100C yet Damien was reporting a little more than ambient ie 48-52 with drop of approx 10 on the exit.

Are you saying something like if intercooler is functioning that the increased airflow should cause friction on sensor and therefore increase in temp beyond ambient?

Cheers.

The compression by the turbo causes the temp rise. At 15psi or higher you should be seeing around 100C from the compressor.
Damiens lower readings are because it's reading the outside of the pipe. The pipe is cooled by air outside. Insulating the pipe and sensor from the outside air will give a better reading.

A pump motor I was looking at this morning was showing 160C on the outside of the compressor.

**Ancient Mariner** · 2nd December 2014, 10:07 AM

Originally Posted by Vern

Ok feels like the pedal could go another 10mm until it actually touches the floor, not sure if it is supposed to or not. Guessing this will give me about 5mm more throttle cable?

The position of the pedal is irrelevant just check there is no more movement available of the high idie lever

**Dougal** · 2nd December 2014, 10:48 AM

The stock RRC pedal has more stroke than the stock 4BD1T throttle arm. I account for this with a small compression spring where the cable outer meets the stop. The spring takes up the difference.

I used to run with a slightly slack cable, but the outer would occasionally push out and snag giving me a high idle.

**Vern** · 2nd December 2014, 11:09 AM

Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner

The position of the pedal is irrelevant just check there is no more movement available of the high idie lever

there is no movement. Its hitting the high idle stop.

**Vern** · 2nd December 2014, 11:16 AM

Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner

Take it for a lap with out the element check the timing and valve settings and check your getting full travel on pump.Took my A4 3.0 tdi for its first run in 6 months yesterday decided my 110 was gutless noisy smelly thirsty handled like crap, vibrates and uncomfortable.Still trying to work out why I continue to drive it instead of the Audi

Am of the thought that its running out of air. May remove the air filter housing cover and go for a spin after work.

**Vern** · 2nd December 2014, 02:12 PM

OK, removed filter housing cover, made no difference. Removed filter, put housing cover back on, made a little difference, but nothing to get excited about. Still a bit Smokey, do I try screw the fuel screw back in and see how that goes? Currently out 3.5 turns and gutless

**Ancient Mariner** · 2nd December 2014, 03:08 PM

Vern if you have tried all suggestions the only thing I can think of is might be some thing to do with your previous fuel problems

Can you do a gravity supply direct to the lift pump? .A bit of a hassle but will take that possibility out of it

**Vern** · 2nd December 2014, 03:11 PM

I did think that, but would it still smoke if it had a fuel supply issue?

**Dougal** · 2nd December 2014, 04:16 PM

Originally Posted by Vern

I did think that, but would it still smoke if it had a fuel supply issue?

A fuel supply issue can effectively retard timing. Too much fuel even retarded will still smoke.

**Vern** · 2nd December 2014, 05:37 PM

Well after some advice via pm from another forum member, I wound the fuel screw all the way back in, then out to 1.5turns, boost back to 15psi, went so much better, no problems up hill either, just foot to the floor. So will muck around with fuel and boost a bit more until it right.
Hopefully that is all it was, road was a bit busy to have a good run

Thread: 4BD1T Turbo Sizing and Performance Prediction.

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