Thread: Tapping oil pump cover for turbo oil return

Originally Posted by Bush65

Another option is to replace one of the covers with a flat steel plate of 5 to 10 mm thickness.

Also good thinking, although:

Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner

Just measured the steel cover in the boat 3.2mm or .125" thick good enough to tap and if unsure Locktite a backnut on .A better solution would be a SS socketwith a birdmouth cut to go over the rounded section TIG welded on as any vertical angle will drain better

AM

I don't see a problem in tapping 3.2mm. Either way...

Originally Posted by Adrian18

Here's my set up the black rubber is the turbo oil dump the shiny pipe is the crank vent I re routed it to the intake side after turboing

Thanks Adrian.

Lots of options...

Originally Posted by flagg

Just buy a TIG already ! :-p

OK!

Originally Posted by Vern

When mike did his at my place, I'm fairly sure he drilled and tapped a half inch hole in the centre

Well, whilst looking at my spare motor, I discovered the oil pump cover has a bolt in the centre of it. It appears to have been tapped. I keep finding a few things that are ****ing me off

Originally Posted by steveG

Ebay is your friend for taps - either NPT or BSP in 1/2" can be had for around $15.

Although I said I wasn't keen on tapping a large hole in the alloy tappet cover, since Adrian18's is working fine just run with that.

Just careful you don't end up in the situation that I did with looking at each problem in isolation, then having to re-do things to solve the next issue. Think about where you're going to run all your provent, exhaust, and intercooler plumbing before committing to anything.
You might find that getting a tube welded into the sump becomes an attractive option....

Steve

I am your friend for taps, not e-bay. Brian's Retirement Sale, best prices in Australia. Haven't you seen my ads in Restored Cars, just Bikes, Just Cars. PM me for prices.

The tapping drills for 1/2" NPT are:-

with taper reamer 11/16"

without taper reamer 45/64"

Originally Posted by Judo

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With most stuff I'm doing, it's the first time! I'm assuming these are push rods for the tappets in the top cover? Would oil drain down here during operation?



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Just because I'm a pedantic bas...

You appear to have made the common mistake of confusing rocker arms and tappets. This is understandable if the engine has overhead cam shafts, and also because the adjustment for the "tappet clearance" is often a screw and lock nut in the rocker arm, however many engines (not the 4BD1) have hydraulic tappets that don't need adjusting.

The tops of two tappets are visible protruding from the block in the last photo in the above quote.

The tappet runs against the camshaft lobe transfers the cam motion to the push rod and the push rod operates the rocker arm to control the valve opening/closing.

The oil used to lubricate the rocker gear and valves, drains back down through the holes for the push rods into the tappet chest.

Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm

The tapping drills for 1/2" NPT are:-

with taper reamer 11/16"

without taper reamer 45/64"

Shame I didn't realise you were selling taps a while back Brian. Who knows when I'll need more tho!

I googled 1/2" NPT drill size and ended up with 23/32 (although there was varying results). It worked OK anyway, plus I brazed the fitting on after I screwed it together so no biggy if it's a fraction out.

Originally Posted by Vern

Well, whilst looking at my spare motor, I discovered the oil pump cover has a bolt in the centre of it. It appears to have been tapped. I keep finding a few things that are ****ing me off

As long as it's not interfering with the shaft that fits into the centre of the cover, does it matter? Where are you draining your turbo to?

BTW, do you have a build thread for the rangie? I can never remember if you've covered these points already...