Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 22

Thread: MSA / LT230

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Central Coast NSW
    Posts
    1,103
    Total Downloaded
    0

    MSA / LT230

    Adaptor thread No.383.

    Right-oh.

    This project of mine ('91 Disco, Defender running gear/diffs, front/rear winch, 4BD1-T, body lift, HF, Endless Air, etc) is now over 8 years old and if I don't finish soon, I'm going to push it out of the garage, set it on fire, and watch it burn.

    The stumbling block has been time and money (money due to distractions like Perentie sell-offs) and the difficulty in getting machinists to do what is needed.

    You do get what you pay for, but some of them.....I wouldn't let them oil the chain on my pushbike let alone machine an adaptor shaft.

    So, after two failed efforts (dud shafts) I've gone it alone. Bought a lathe (60+ year old Qualos) and trolled wrecking yards. Forgive the lack of technicality with Rockwell tests, Trade and WHS Certificates, and welding (dissimilar metals) X-rays. This is just a battler having a go .

    The images from top to bottom are: (again demonstrating my lack of computerial skill)

    1. Pretty much all the partially assembled bits. The 'donut'/flange, the splined collar, the adaptor shaft from Rakeway Engineering (UK), the other end of the 'donut' flange (that the splined collar will be pressed and welded into), the 'donut' (a crappy old LR one) to be replaced in service by a alloy billet one with neoprene inserts, and the bolts to tie it all together.

    IMG_2341.jpg

    2. The (rear) flange is the before example, and the fore bits, the splined 'collar' and the left offer bit which isn't used.

    IMG_2337.jpg

    3. The triangle thingy is a diff flange to suit the 'donut' connector supplied on the '94 on? Discovery, and were routinely bagged and replaced by traditional uni-joints. You can see the cracks in it, and I only used it for measurement purposes. The advantage of the 'donut' is being of a compressible material, it's able to cope with some forces that rigid shafts cannot. The price is longevity but they're used widely in a variety of machines with no apparent issues.

    IMG_2338.jpg

    4. The other triangle thingy is attached to what's left of a spare transfer case drive flange. Unfortunately when separated from their respective splined core, have an internal and external diameter that require a collar to ensure they're concentric. The collar was made of a section of LR propshaft that was a snug fit, so very convenient. The whole lot was pressed together and welded - not showing my welds, but with 0.8 wire, a 250v Mig and spinning the lot on the lathe, it runs true and if it breaks, I'll give up!

    IMG_2240.jpg IMG_2244.jpg

    The measurements will leave the transfer case in the factory location, and therefore prop shafts the original length. The LR 'donut' has the same PCD (Pitch Circle Diameter - bolt holes) as a VY Commodore and since they can handle a fair bit of abuse (torque/vertical movement etc), and this fitting won't be suffering the same distortion when fitted to a diff, I'm prepared to give it a go.

    I've got a plate being faced and machined to accept the bearings on the rear of the gearbox, so when that's done I'll be able to weld the splined collar to the 'donut' flange and look at bracing that to the transfer case. It's not quite a divorced set-up but close enough.

    The integrity will be down to the 'donut' so apart from the replacement being an alloy body with neoprene inserts, a spare will be a good idea. In fact, I'm going to fabricate a duplicate assembly for insurance. I'm not going to abuse it all, but I will be using the vehicle as intended.

    There you go, thats's my sanity coming together....

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Central Coast NSW
    Posts
    1,103
    Total Downloaded
    0

    ....and

    This an image of it put together and resting on the output shaft of the gearbox (i ran out of image allowance last post). Yes I know the 'donut' bolts are not fitted correctly, it's just one of many test fits.. I'm also making a collar to secure the assembly to the shaft and act as a the bearing support for the original 'donut' design - the adventure continues.

    IMG_2332.jpg

    Not too pretty yet but there's more to come.

    - and yes Noel, if your out there, thank you to all your guidance - and Sheldon, and Damien, and John, and Dougal, and Ben, and Justin and everyone else! Thanks.
    Last edited by mudmouse; 18th November 2015 at 09:10 AM. Reason: .

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    13,786
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Like your work.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geelong, VIC
    Posts
    4,442
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Good on ya Matt. Looking forward to seeing it all come together.

    What are you doing for a shifter?

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  5. #5
    Adrian18 Guest
    Howed you go with ordering from rakeway. ...i could never get a email response. ...how much was the shaft from them ...cheers great work

    Sent from my SM-N920I using AULRO mobile app

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Central Coast NSW
    Posts
    1,103
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Steve - the first incarnation, which was drivable, I used a cable shift, which had an annoyingly long 'throw'. The shift mechanism was attached to the gearbox, and due to the body lift led to the stick movement being so long. This time I think I'll keep the cables but fix the shifter to the transmission tunnel - that should maintain a decent dust/water seal, and help it shift like a Corolla from which the shift mechanism came. The transfer shifter will have to be mounted (somehow) without the adaptor case. That shouldn't be too hard. I had considered the modification shown by Noel (Ancient Mariner) but I'm not that confident I have the skills....

    Adrian - Rakeway; Yes, I've yet to receive a reply to my emails but I was sent one confirming my order for the shaft, which I did over the phone. As far as quality and conversation goes, they're great. I'd have to check my invoices but I think the shaft was 225 GBP plus freight. The flange is fitted to the shaft allowing for failures to be reasonably easily replaced. I'm going to order a spare but at the time I couldn't manage it. The face of the flange protrudes 30mm from the face of the transfer case - I was going to make an adaptor using uni-joints but in a 100inch wheelbase I didn't have room, hence the current plan.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Orange, NSW
    Posts
    7,965
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I had to battle to get Rakeway to reply to my emails, they did eventually in the end.
    And MM, nice work. I like the attitude of "This was a problem so I fixed it" rather than "This was a problem so I stopped"
    Top shelf thinking.
    The Phantom - Oslo Blue 2001 Td5 SE.
    Half dead but will live again!

    Nina - Chawton White 2003 Td5 S
    Slowly being improved

    Quote Originally Posted by Judo View Post
    You worry me sometimes Muppet!!


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Darwin
    Posts
    1,707
    Total Downloaded
    12.74 MB
    Good to see your project.

    I spoke to Rakeway a couple of years ago. From memory the Rakeway flange was designed to mate to Land Rover sized flanges. This meant the Rakeway flange was too small for the Isuzu truck flange in my project. I assume this hasn't changed, but should work well for Mudmouse using primarily Rover stuff. The Rakeway SAE10 spline looked like it bolted to the flange. From memory Rakeway might have been prepared to have a larger Isuzu sized flange made, but would cost a lot of money for a one off, and of course you need to know how to present the required information in engineer talk.

    I assume your spline was removed from what looks like an Isuzu drive flange(?) - and then press fit/welded to the tri-lobe.

    Regarding the plate being machined up to fit around the bearings at the back of the box - I assume you've figured out how to contain oil that comes out the back of the box and at the same time allow passage of the drive flange through a seal? Wonder if you could have just kept the original gearbox back cover?
    the
    Being sort of remote mounted, I assume the rubber donut etc is open to the air and will be easily accessible for field service. As you say, the donut should last a lot longer in this application, compared to the diff where it twists a lot.

    Lathes are fun. I'm self taught, so it's often heart in mouth that something will work out.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Central Coast NSW
    Posts
    1,103
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I haven't heard of Rakeway looking at the Isuzu flange option. Sounds interesting, although a bolt-on fit would move the transfer case closer to the rear of the gearbox, affecting the length of the prop shafts. This would be good if the prop shafts ended up equal lengths (for carrying one spare).

    I have looked at the TKO gearbox options from Rakeway, and there is a bell housing adaptor available in the US (TKO/Isuzu) but that all adds up to huge $ in comparison to this one.

    The drive flange was off the Isuzu gearbox. One from an MSW the other an MXA - same spline dimension. The tri-lobe fits on the collar to be welded when the dimensions are sorted.

    The plate being machined is faced and recessed to accept the bearings and retain oil/let it breathe. After about a year after I had my first adaptor plate machined out of alloy I chucked the original gearbox end housing assuming I'd never need it (Doh!). Never assume

    The donut will be exposed but more for inspection at this stage. If it needed to be changed (in the field) I'd have to move the transfer case rearward slightly as the flange mating tot the Rakeway shaft is cupped so they mate concentrically. No big drama, just a bit more work if needed to replace it. The one I will be using has an alloy body and neoprene inserts which should be better able to handle oil/dirt/water/movement, than the factory rubber one.

    Lathes - yep, I still remember my Metalwork teacher at school going ape if the key was left in the chuck! (Thanks Wally) those memories are well served. Love the lathe.

    Here's the link to the alloy coupling (donut/Rotoflex)

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Drive-Cou...0AAOSwn51UaLDD

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Darwin
    Posts
    1,707
    Total Downloaded
    12.74 MB
    Was wondering, regarding field service (hopefully you'll never need to), instead of moving the transfer case rearward could you just pull the tc input gear to give more wriggle room?

    Rakeway aren't considering making an Isuzu matched flange, it's just I asked and they indicated they could, but would cost a lot for a one off - shame the stars were not aligned and we could have done a bulk purchase to bring down costs.

    Interesting to see which is the better wearing option, the donut or the billet ring. One of my donuts was deteriorated enough (was very old) that you could see how it was internally fibre thread re-enforced. Actually replaced the unit with a Baleys wide angle prop.

    I use a spring loaded chuck key...say no more!

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!